Toledo, the land of Don Quijote

CEBU, Philippines - In our amazing voyage through Spain, it is my pleasure to invite you to Toledo, in Castilla la Mancha, the land of Don Quijote de la Mancha. It is the most famous book by the Spanish writer Don Miguel de Cervantes. I know the name sounds familiar, because in Cebu, there is also a beautiful city called Toledo.

I must confess that I love Toledo because once you arrive there, you can feel you are in Medieval times. As some of you already know, I am also an actress, and last year I was almost living in Toledo, shooting a movie called AGUILA ROJA (Red Eagle). In that movie, I was playing the role of a Toledana named Clementina. When I was writing this article, my mind traveled through a time tunnel to meet and recreate the Middle Ages' knights, princesses, spinners, artisans and minstrels. The knights dueled for the love of beautiful maidens while wool spinners worked among new spices that came from Asia as the calendula that I held in my hands in one scene of the film.

You can visit Toledo in just a day or two. It is the nearest city from Madrid and everything there is ready for tourists.

To get to Toledo from Madrid, you just need to go to the Atocha Station and take a fast-train so that in less than 30 minutes, you can be there. Some people work in Madrid during the day and go back to Toledo to sleep. Spending an hour to go to our jobs is a common activity. However, the Medieval Train, or the Cervantes, is slower than the Avant (fast one). The crew are actors who will explain to you in English or Spanish the history with music, dances and through gastronomy. If you go to this website: www.renfe.com, you can already buy your tickets and get promos. Just bring your passport to the station or book online. If you travel with children under 4, they will go for free and would have a wonderdul time. I did this tour with one of my brothers and my husband. We had an amazing time. They also have the Spain Pass for non-Spanish residents, with very good deals. Just in case you don´t know, the Spanish Train Federation, called RENFE, is known as the best and most modern in the world, so that the U.S.A. is copying ours.

First thing: Comfortable footwear with thick soles. The streets are made with cobblestones.

In addition, it is good to know that the old town was built on a mountain and some people say that in Toledo, there are no slopes below, only the ones above.

In summer (from June to September) bring a hat and abanico (fan); in winter, make sure to wear a good coat, gloves, scarves, hats. Don't forget a bottle of water for hydration during the walking. Now, take a deep breath and let´s start the exercise.

Toledo is considered as one of the most beautiful and romantic cities of Europe and, like Segovia, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is full of charming, narrow, winding streets which are almost like a labyrinth. Most of Toledo hotels are located at the Plaza de Zocodover, known as Zoco to the locals, and there are also a good number of excellent restaurants and bars in this area. Many men use this beautiful place to propose marriage to their girlfriends, because it is almost imposible to say no with that view and because in that area are the kingdom´s jewelers, goldsmiths and craftsmen working gold and silver for centuries. Prices are very affordable and the pieces are handmade, that is why you are buying unique pieces rich with tradition. You will also find here all the Toledo souvenirs like swords, ceramics, badges and looms.

The multicultural architectural styles that cross the centuries from Gothic to Baroque have benefited from the city's ties with the Christians, Moors and Jews. Boasting a plethora of fine arts that include the works of El Greco, Goya and Velaquez, Toledo is one of Europe's most visited sites and very accessible on foot.

What to see?

• Cathedral Primada of Toledo

The Cathedral is dedicated to the Virgin Mary on her Assumption to heaven. Its construction began in 1227 under order of the Archbishop Don Rodrigo Jiménez. The site was situated over the foundations of the Visigoth Cathedral in the sixth century, which used as a Mosque. Constructed in a Gothic style with a French influence, it measures 120 m long by 60 m wide and contains 5 naves supported by 88 pillars and 72 vaults.

As in most of the religious monuments, there are some rules you must follow when visiting:

1. No food and refreshments allowed inside.

2. Do not touch the works of art. Laser pointers are also forbidden.

3. Visitors must enter the Cathedral and Museums with appropriate dress and decorum.

4. Photography and filming are forbidden inside the Cathedral and Museums.

5. Use of mobile phones is not permitted. Turn them off before entering the Cathedral.

6. During Mass, tourists are not allowed to stay, unless they participate as Catholics.

• Synagogue of the Transito

The Sinagoga del Tránsito, in the city of Toledo, is one of the most important examples of Hispano-Jewish art. It was built in the 14th century and is decorated with Mudejar elements and beautiful geometric motifs, flowers and inscriptions in Arabic and Hebrew.

It was part of a sumptuous palace built in the 15th century and erected in the days when the Jewish community had an enviable position in the society. King Don Pedro even openly protected the Jews, and synagogues saw their heyday under his reign (1350-1369), as they were protected even when a Papal Bull had banned the erection of new Hebrew temples, and only allowed the refurbishment of those already constructed.

There are more than 100 museums in this capital, so time management is important. Check out: www.toledo-turismo.com, and you get information in English to decide which museums to visit.

Notable Museums in Toledo

Museum of El Greco: The famous Spanish painter El Greco lived in this house which today has an impressive exhibition of his paintings, as well as exhibits of other artists. 

Museum of Contemporary Art: Set in la Casa de las Cadenas, an interesting 16th century building. Exhibitions are  of 20th century artists

Museum of Santa Cruz: 16th century building that used to be a hospital. Lovely patio and stairway. Exhibits works of art, tapestries and artefacts found in archeogical excavations.

Museum Parroquía de Santo Tomé: This museum is where El Greco's most famous painting, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz (El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz) is exhibited.

"The Quijote" Gastronomy

The cuisine of La Mancha, since centuries ago, has been an expression of the feelings and traditions of the people. It has its own gastronomic treasures, product of the combination of the resources still grown in the fields and mountains.

La Mancha cooking – made universal and legitimised by Cervantes in his work El Quijote – is abundant and tasty, as varied as its geography and, especially substantial, as its origin is basically from the shepherds.

Toledo is famous for its roast meats and stews. Typical local dishes include estofada de perdiz (partridge casserole), el cuchifrito (an original dish made with lamb, tomato, egg, saffron and white wine), judias con perdiz (a bean and partridge stew), roast lamb and roast suckling pig and, during hunting season, wild game. The best way to eat in Toledo is without a plan, just walk around and find the ASADORES or MESONES and try them. They are cheap and good.

In case you want a gourmet meal, Restaurant Adolfo is one of the most famous in "asar." It is the Spanish word for "roast" and asadores are restaurants specialising in roasted (or grilled) meat. But Asador Adolfo is much more than that. The owner of this restaurant, Adolfo Muñoz, is quite a local personality and makes regular appearances on regional television. His restaurant is usually visited by international celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow, and offers customers imaginative dishes based on local ingredients. His winelist is regarded by experts to be one of the best in Spain. Definitely worth a visit. The set menu costs around €50 (about P2,650.00).

Restaurant El Locum: The Locum Restaurant is located right in the historical centre of Toledo, close to the Cathedral, in an old house dating from the 17th Century and refurbished into a magnificent restaurant that combines tradition and modernity.

Restaurant Cigarral de las Mercedes: The Cigarral de las Mercedes is in a privileged location, five minutes from the historical centre of Toledo, surrounded by beautiful gardens. This enclave, where a love for details is everywhere, invites you to enjoy its serenity and comfort. It is such a romantic place that on the menu, you can also order flowers or chocolates.

Where to stay?

I would rather stay in Madrid and go there by train for a day visit, but you can also opt to stay for two or three days in these beautiful places:

1-Hilton Palacio de Buenavista

The Hotel Hilton Buenavista Toledo is ideally located in the centre of the residential area of Buenavista, just five minutes from the imperial city. It is a 5-star hotel.

2-Hotel Fontecruz Palacio Eugenia de Montijo

This luxury hotel is situated in the center of Toledo and offers discounts in its webpage. The Renaissance building was a palace of the Empress Eugenia de Montijo, wife of Napoleon III, and is now a Boutique Hotel with 40 rooms. This palace was reconstructed with attentive architects, archaeologists and specialized restorers, allowing you to admire Roman sewers and Arabic walls of the 14th century.

3-Hotel Cigarral de las Mercedes

Cigarral de las Mercedes is a traditional Toledo country property turned into a luxury boutique hotel and restaurant, a point of reference for celebrations and events.

To highlight our tour in Quijote´s land, next step is in Castilla La Mancha, a charred city called Cuenca. If you have time to allow your imagination to roam free in this land, I recomend you read Don Quijote de la Mancha before your trip. Know this knight who believed in chivalry and true love. Meet  his love Dulcinea and his sidekick Sancho Panza, and walk with him through these paths full of legends. (FREEMAN)