7 Churches, 14 Stations, 21 Wishes

In this dominantly Catholic nation, we have a legacy of churches built during 300 years of Spanish rule. Many still stand erect; most need to be restored. All remain hubs of Philippine towns and cities, with townspeople especially in the provinces gravitating towards these churches not just on Sundays, but practically every day of the week.

As a fitting preparation for holy week, I joined a group of 30 young professionals of the Life’s Directions (LD) Community led by Fr. Kit Bautista, SJ on a pilgrimage to some Batangas churches. Patterned after the traditional Holy Week ritual of Bisita Iglesia, we visited seven churches and meditated and prayed over the 14 Stations of Christ’s passion and death. This lenten pilgrimage has been an annual tradition since 1997, held alternately in Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao with Manila as this year’s host to delegates from Davao, Cagayan de Oro and Roxas City.

First Stop: San Sebastian Cathedral, Lipa City

The cathedral built in the Romanesque tradition with a circular dome, massive walls and balconies remains the center of Sunday worship in the historic town of Lipa. Built by the Augustinian fathers, the existing edifice was completed in 1865, sturdy enough to withstand earthquakes and volcano eruptions. A few years back Lipa Mayor Vilma Santos walked down the long aisle to marry now Senator Ralph Recto. Employing trompe l’oeil techniques, impressive three-dimensional images are achieved on the ceilings punctuated by classic black chandeliers. Yet, it is the church’s silver retablo imported by the Augustinian Fathers several centuries back that is most priceless. As we recited the first two Stations of the Cross, a high-pitched melody played as the pipe organ dating from four decades past was being repaired.

Second Stop: The Church of Our Lady Mediatrix of Grace, Lipa City

On the first Saturday of the month, devotees of the Blessed Mother pay homage by attending one of six masses of the day. Buses, cars and vans clogging the spacious parking lot hint at the popularity of this church. But seeing the devotees deep in prayer with arms outstretched crowding around the Lady’s pure white image is an even more convincing indicator of the drawing power of this church and the depth of Marian devotion in this country.

Third Stop: Archdiocesan Shrine of St. Joseph the Patriarch, San Jose

Built in 1812 in honor of St. Joseph, many devotees come here to pay homage to the patron of good husbands, fathers and workers. A bronze image of St. Joseph stands in front of the church. Many single women in the group uttered a silent prayer requesting Mary’s devoted spouse to provide a suitable mate just like him. Like a good omen, a wedding was taking place when we arrived. Some kids were practicing for a school play on the church courtyard bringing life to this otherwise quiet town.

Fourth Stop: Immaculate Conception Basilica, Batangas City

Built by the Augustinian Fathers in 1587, most notable are its frescoes in gray and black depicting Christ’s life and other biblical scenes. Homilies will surely not be boring if one can look up at the walls and ceilings to be adequately entertained and educated by the religious scenarios illustrated.

Fifth stop: Basilica of San Martin de Torres (Taal Basilica), Taal

After a hearty lunch of fresh seafood from the Batangas waters and a catnap in the bus, we awoke to the majestic sight of Taal Basilica. The grandeur of this structure and its strategic location on top of the hill emphasize its magnificence. It is the widest church built during the colonial period. Even today, the church seems too large for the parishioners who attend Sunday mass. In the past, it not only functioned as a setting for prayer and worship, but also provided shelter in times of war and natural disaster. Its undeniable presence has made the Basilica the core of the Taaleños’ daily life. Little boys run and tug at their kites just outside the church, while enterprising women cluster around the church to sell candles and native delicacies.

Sixth Stop: Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay

The Church houses priceless relics of the Spanish colonial period, among them the eight-inch image of the Lady of the Immaculate Conception fished out of the Pansipit River in 1603. Taaleños attribute the relative peace and good fortune of the town to this special talisman. Local folklore has it that the statue mysteriously disappears and re-appears. It once reportedly disappeared from Taal, only to re-appear to two women gathering firewood in Caysasay. They stopped for a drink at the well and saw a reflection of the image on the clear water. When they looked up, their gaze was met by the image on the branch of the sampaga tree. Despite several attempts to keep the image in the Taal Basilica, it always finds its way back to Caysasay. Hence the Shrine was built in this spot, where devotees can pray and even touch her frock from Thursday to Saturday. The rest of the week her image is housed in a niche of the Taal Basilica’s side altar. A coral stone arch with a bas relief image of the Virgin now stands over the well where Our Lady’s reflection was seen by the two women almost four centuries ago. The well water is said to have healing properties.

While walking to the church, we met Marietta Goco, the hermana mayor for the 400th feast of Our Lady of Caysasay on December 8 of this year. She narrated with much enthusiasm the miracles of The Lady, warning us to be careful what we ask for, because she will surely grant it.

Seventh Stop: Chapel of the Transfiguration, Caleruega, Batulao

As nightfall beat us to the last church, we were left in suspense until the next morning. After a meaningful Sunday Eucharist in Caleruega’s chapel, we reached the Transfiguration Chapel located atop the gorgeous retreat grounds overlooking Batulao’s scenic hills. Journeying with Christ’s suffering through the Stations of the Cross, we achieved a deeper understanding of the meaning of His passion and death. Consequently, we developed a better appreciation for the lives and blessings bestowed upon us.

As a child I learned that the Church is the House of God. I learned to make three wishes at every new church I enter. But on this pilgrimage, I learned to marvel not only at the greatness of physical structures, but to also appreciate the faith and the faithful they house. The church derives its beauty from the presence of even just one faithful believer in prayer. And in the Philippines, I have always, without exception, found Filipinos breathing life into the church, and the church breathing life into the people. On this pilgrimage, it became especially apparent how blessed Filipinos are with lives rooted in faith.