Kanlaon’s Magic

On the horizon, clouds embrace the mountain that has been a source of fascination and legendary stories of undying love.

Mt. Kanlaon, at 2,435 meters the highest peak in Central Philippines and the 16th highest in the country, evokes magic and mystery. Healers and those involved in the esoteric climb up its steep terrain in search of cures and potions, guided by the belief that in Mt. Kanlaon lies a powerful spirit that comforts and heals.

To trekkers and mountain climbers, it is both a challenge and a worthy climb–the trails, steep in most parts, offer breathtaking sights. Mt. Kanlaon’s beauty, however, is juxtaposed with its dangerous personality. It is a complex and active volcano. In fact, phivolcs has declared it as the most unpredictable "in terms of its volcanically eruptive nature" and classified the area within its four-kilometer radius as a permanent danger zone.

The Mt. Kanlaon Natural Park covers a land area of 24,557.60 hectares and lies in four cities and two municipalities in Negros Oriental and Occidental.

On its steep slopes are found silvery waterfalls, cascading rivers and flowing streams, which provide for the daily water needs of its people. Almost 55 percent of the park still has primary and secondary forest cover. About 30 percent is cultivated. Roughly 25 percent of the park is occupied as home and farm lots.

There are conflicting estimates on park population but most documents put it at about 15,000 people or 3,068 households. Majority of the population rely on farming (about 95 percent) while a small percentage are employed, mostly as seasonal workers in sugarcane plantations or engaged in micro-businesses such as sari-sari stores and buy-and-sell activities, raising of gaming birds and poultry, charcoal-making and other extractive forest-based activities.

Mt. Kanlaon is home to the indigenous community of Bukidnons, who have made the park their haven since the time of Spanish colonization when they refused payment of taxes. Their 489 members formed the Cabagtasan Tribal Council and Iliran Tribal Council. There is also a community of Atis or Negritos but they have been cited only as occasional hunters without permanent settlements in the park.

Years before the enactment of the National Integrated Protected Areas (NIPAS) Act, the volcano was facing imminent death: trees were being cut at an alarming rate, wildlife and birds hunted and killed, and plants–including some rare orchid species–indiscriminately gathered. Ruben Deles of Barangay Biak na Bato recalls, "Halos araw araw may namumutol ng kahoy. Kada linggo, mga dalawang truck na illegal logs ay makikita mong bumababa galing sa itaas."

Widespread charcoal making among the settlers further destroyed the forest. Trekkers and mountain climbers came and went, with no guidelines to regulate their incursion. And there was little or no community involvement to take up the cause of the mountain.

However, with the advent of the NIPAS Act, the implementation of the Conservation of Priority Protected Areas Project (CPPAP) and the consequent building up of efforts from the communities and stakeholders in the park, Mt. Kanlaon faces a future of renewed forest cover and protected species.

Hopes are high. As pointed out by Angelo Bibar, a DENR biologist assigned to the park, "I am not very comfortable with saying that, yes, we have really curbed illegal logging when I cannot even give you statistics. What I can confidently say is that I have seen, with my own eyes, the existence of endangered species. The mere fact that they are still here means they still have their natural habitat. If we were not able to curb illegal logging, I think that, by this time, we should have already lost most if not all of our endangered floral and faunal species."

Efforts in the park are sources of inspiring stories. One of the most active groups is called Kanlaon Green Brigade (KGB) and they are practically the volcano’s warriors. They have about 300 volunteers doing the rounds of the forests, all them allowed to apprehend illegal loggers or trekkers. They receive no compensation although sometimes, they are given a little amount as food allowance. One of the most beautiful things about them is that they have not only contributed to the apparent decrease in illegal logging activities in the forest, but they were also instrumental in changing values among illegal loggers.

Says Milfred Deles of the Kanlaon Green Brigade-Alay sa Kalikasan Organization (KGB-ako), "There were those who used to engage in illegal logging activities who are now very active members of our organization."

In Mt. Kanlaon, there are also great artists whose talents and passion must be told so that they will continue to inspire.

Dominador Polidario is one of the gifted sons of Mt. Kanlaon who is also part of community efforts. Chairperson of the Mambukal Outdoor Services Team (MOST), he leads in the production of handicrafts, ornaments and accessories using indigenous materials. These products are sold both in the local and international markets. During my visit to his small shop in Mambukal, Dominador was busy working on an earthenware décor. The movement of his hands was measured and confident; one cannot help but think of Mt. Kanlaon’s rivers and streams that run their defined course as if guided by a "maestro" in a symphony.

At the end of the interview, Dominador carefully put a handmade bracelet on my wrist, and with this gesture conveyed all the beauty and colors of this magical mountain that refuses to sleep.