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Starweek Magazine

A nostalgic meal

- Lydia Castillo - The Philippine Star

In the mid-60s, in the absence of fast food outlets, the two reigning Filipino restaurants were Aristocrat and Selecta, both located on Roxas Boulevard, the hub of business and entertainment activities.

Selecta’s pancit guisado and ice cream made of fresh carabao milk and Aristocrat’s honey chicken and halo-halo were the signature offerings. Selecta chose to concentrate on their ice cream, phasing out the restaurant. Aristocrat still stands strong, competitive against the onslaught of new local and foreign dining places. 

Aristocrat’s founding matriarch Doña Engracia Reyes has a big family. Her legacy thus continues with her children, grandchildren and maybe even great grandchildren. Third generation Reyeses have put up various restaurants –  Reyes Barbecue in malls, Alex III in Greenhills and Serye, in the Quezon City Memorial Circle and at the Santana Grove on A. Santos Avenue in Parañaque City. 

A grandson, Alvin Reyes Lim, and his wife Gretchen (Consunji) are at the helm of Serye. That is a play on the letters of the legendary family name, at the same time it symbolizes their aim to continue the tradition of good food and service and be part of the progressive restaurant culture in the country. And, we might add, to give those who miss their brand of Filipino food a nostalgic meal. For reservations, call 924-3411 (QC) or 825-4691 (Parañaque).

These days  it is rather difficult to find a good Filipino restaurant. Serye now joins the few that serve authentic kare-kare, which has been so stylized by some; the rich lomi or the boneless crispy pata. Serye remains faithful to the traditional although some recipes have been tweaked – like the laing con camaron rebosado (we know a friend who will be happy to discover this camaron,  which is now a rarity); the binagoongang lechon kawali served with native vegetables; longganiza de recado bolognese and kesong puti putanesca. The menu is extensive, any diner will certainly find his or her fancy.

Gretchen makes the cakes they serve – try the apple pie or the macapuno pandan cake, a lovely blend of colors and flavors.

Now Christmas is only about 33 days away. Have you checked and rechecked your lists for the food you will prepare, serve or give away as presents? One of the most welcome food gifts is a good fruit cake. And to our mind, the best are the fruit cakes and cookies from Ju’D, the lady who has been doing and perfecting these for years. Her list is out – check it out. They have the Traditional (classic, prune, golden apricot flavors, among others), the Petites and now the Premium nougats. Prices range from P280 to P1,000. Call 633-1188 or 633-0260.   

Let’s look forward to a cheerful holiday season!

E-mail me at [email protected].

ACIRC

ALVIN REYES LIM

ARISTOCRAT AND SELECTA

ATILDE

ENGRACIA REYES

GREENHILLS AND SERYE

GRETCHEN

NBSP

NOW CHRISTMAS

QUEZON CITY MEMORIAL CIRCLE

SERYE

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