If there is anything that binds peoples of the world, it is art. Besieged by crises all around its borders, Hungary seemingly lifted the symbolic barrier on art and has sent out its Budapest Operetta and Musical Theatre to various countries, among them the Philippines. The group was here for a one-night performance in the middle of this month. The artists performed vignettes from the classics as well as the popular “Phantom of the Opera” and “West Side Story.” Coincidentally, we received from our good friend Estrelle, who served in the diplomatic corps with the rank of ambassador and who was in Hungary, a cookbook that traces the history of Hungarian cuisine through its most famous culinary figure, Karoly Gundel, whose book has had 45 editions since the time it was first published in 1934. After he was gone, his sons Ferenc and Imre carried on with their father’s mission to let the world know of their kitchen treasures. We can call Gundel Hungary’s Nora Daza, for blazing the trail for their respective cuisines.
Gundel was an honest and simple innkeeper who grew up under his father’s tutelage. The elder Gundel was president of the Hotel, Restaurants and Innkeepers’ Association for 35 years. Karoly learned the trade from him and he eventually attained and gained honor and prestige, which led to him being tagged the Escoffier of Hungary by an American gastromone. Assisted by his wife, he rose in position and became the industry group’s president like his father. His credo was basically to serve good food and provide gracious and efficient service. He wrote many books on cookery and hosting.
Foodies would perhaps recall that the more popular Hungarian dish here in the Philippines is Hungarian goulash. But there is more to this interesting cookery. It is noted that food preparation has changed around the world, and Hungarian food has, through the years, been influenced by varied cuisines, among them Italian and French, especially with the emergence of new restaurants and hotels. But it remained “local” specifically by the use of elements available in the country. Reading and examining the recipes in the book, we believe Hungarian cooking is a kind unto its own.
Can you believe that paprika (capsicum anuum) is the Hungarian national spice? What happened to our impression that it was solely from Spain? Two hundred years ago, paprika was already in their kitchens. It is noted that the spice grown in Spain is large and meaty. While we delight in its aroma, emitted when we cook our paella, the Hungarians claim it does not have the intense flavor of their native paprika which, while smaller, is more aromatic. That can be settled if and when we get hold of both, at the same time.
Take note of this – Hungarian dishes are normally cooked with what they call hard lard! This makes us shudder at the thought, right? But in our native town Biñan, we grew up with our elders who reigned in our kitchen and were cooking with pork lard! Our fish sarsiado and paksiw were more savory bathed in pork lard. They also use a lot of onions and sour cream. More Hungarian food – to start with, there is the goulash, called gulyas soup, made with cubed beef, lard, garlic, caraway seeds, green pepper, tomatoes and pasta. Because of the waters surrounding Hungary, fish dishes are made from fresh catch, the most notable being the pike-perch, resembling the normal coated fish fillet but with Mornay sauce. Sirloin steaks also feature in his cookbook, one dish being fillet of beef Budapest style. And porkolt, which is similar to French ragout.
It would be a pity if no Hungarian cookbook is available here. The cuisine is rich and very interesting.
Have a happy Sunday!
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