Aloha

An idle comment that I had never been to Hawaii was like spontaneous combustion that – thanks to Philippine Airlines’ Everyday Madness promo and persistent searching on the Internet for good deals – ended up in a pre-holiday break to celebrate a milestone with friends in hulaland.

We did the obligatory tourist things – walked along Waikiki, ate at a shrimp truck in the North Shore and watched the surfers, went to the Big Island to see the volcanoes and eat malasada, and shopped at the outlets.

We were in Honolulu on the anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941 that plunged the United States into war. Throughout the city flags flew at half staff; at 7:55 a.m. – the minute the bombing began – there was a moment of silence at the commemoration beside the USS Arizona memorial. Then a vintage World War II plane flew overhead.

The US Pacific Fleet based at Pearl Harbor plays a crucial role in the current US pivot to Asia, especially with tensions in the area simmering over disputes in the West Philippine Sea, East China Sea and South China Sea. Pacific Fleet commander Admiral Harry Harris Jr. said during the ceremony the US remembers Pearl Harbor and is vigilant. “The United States is and will remain a Pacific power. But we also remember the warning from those who survived Pearl Harbor, and we are increasing our vigilance accordingly. Today, we are focused as we listen for the sound of the alarms.”

I hitched a ride with my friend JJ as he and flight instructor Lei – who was a great guide to boot – took a light plane up for a spin that bright Saturday morning. Beautiful as Hawaii is seen from the ground, the vistas are breathtaking from the air. The emerald mountains bisecting the island, the pockets of buildings and houses looking like Monopoly structures from 1,500 feet up, the color changes of the waters and the distinctive white froth of the waves that attract and challenge surfers... Lei said the day before they spotted a couple of whales breaching; unfortunately we were not as lucky.

We circled over the iconic Diamond Head, and I must admit it was only then that I appreciated this landmark. We were not allowed to circle over Pearl Harbor, but Lei promised I would get to see it as the return path to Honolulu airport would take us over the area. As we did so, I wondered what went through the minds of the kamikaze pilots as they approached the harbor: Did they see only enemy ships,  or did they, even for just one moment, see the beauty laid out below?

But thoughts of home were never far away. At dinner at the raucous and rambunctious Buca by Beppo where a big group participating in the Honolulu marathon that Sunday were carbo-loading, our server Chris, upon learning where we were from, told us they were having a benefit concert for the victims of Typhoon Haiyan (Yolanda) the following night. Indeed, there may be an ocean between us, but it isn’t big enough to separate us.