Sorsogon’s hidden treasures

MANILA, Philippines - From the busy streets of Sorsogon, we make a turn into a lane densely lined with coconut trees. It seems quaint enough, your standard provincial scene, until we reach the entrance of Siama Hotel.

Inside, the hotel is at the same time luxurious and easy-going. It is furnished with oversized sofas and pillows, which are made light by slim bamboo or rattan frames. There are sturdy, solid wooden tables balanced off by delightful details like glass lamps with sculpted fish “swimming” through them.

“It’s a hideaway… We want the guests who come here to feel like it’s their home,” says owner Milo Naval on the newly-opened hotel. Naval, a furniture designer associated with Movement 8, a group that promotes Philippine design to the international market, also designed all the furnishings of the hotel.

“I try to be Filipino in my work, first and foremost. I use materials and techniques that are Philippine or Asian,” he says.

Naval, who is also the province’s tourism consultant, says that even just going from place to place in Sorsogon, viewing the lush landscape and seeing the scenic spots, is a treat in itself. He adds that one of the guiding principles of his design philosophy is to take inspiration from the place itself and adapting to the surroundings. And, in Sorsogon, there is a lot to be inspired by.

The quiet elegance of Siama is much like the rest of Sorsogon’s sights – there are surprises and treasures hidden around every corner.

Similar to our entrance to Siama Hotel, Gubat is another discovery. We got off the bus at the side of a road and entered a narrow path – lined again with trees, and with huts of those who reside in the area. At the end of the path, the shore awaits. The sand is fine and the water pristine.

Gubat is gaining in popularity as another hot surfing spot in the country. It is ideal for beginners, as the waves are not as big and are less intimidating than in other surfing areas. They come in almost steady intervals and will give a new surfer enough chances to get some practice and gain confidence in the water.

Aside from Gubat, Matnog is also popular for its beaches, including Subic Beach. Island hopping is a favorite activity here, as well as a visit to the marine sanctuary. Prieto Diaz, on the other hand, houses the largest mangrove forest, showing the Sorsoganon’s respect for nature.

More recently, Matnog’s port has become a docking point for ships carrying important relief goods bound for Leyte and Samar in the wake of Super Typhoon Yolanda.

The more adventurous tourists will enjoy hiking Mount Bulusan – the volcano that towers over Sorsogon. All roads lead to Bulusan – it is easily accessible from any town in Sorsogon, it being one of the more well-known destinations – if not the most well-known – in the province.

Aside from viewing the caldera and appreciating the awesome size of the volcano itself, there is also the Bayugin Falls and Bulusan Lake that add to the mystical quality that envelops the area.

The Bulusan Volcano National Park, a nature sanctuary, is situated at the foot of the volcano. From there, visitors can paddle around Bulusan Lake in a kayak.

After the hike – or a long day of sight-seeing – weary travelers can relax at the various hot and cold mineral springs along the way, including the San Benon hot and cold spring.

Because of the composition of its soil (due in part to the presence of Mount Bulusan), Sorsogon is the most ideal breeding ground for Bicol’s signature product – the pili nut. In fact, some 70 percent of Bicol’s pili supply comes from Sorsogon.

The province’s biggest and oldest pili tree stands tall in the town of Bacon. Tourists can let their taste buds do the exploring when they taste the fresh pili nut, which is vastly different from the pili we are used to in its many commercial variants – as candies, in jams, glazed with honey, mixed into cookies, as pili oil, and in every other way, shape, and form the creative Bicolanos can come up with to showcase their beloved pili. Sorsogon City hosts the Pili Festival every year.

Finally, another popular destination in Sorsogon is Donsol to experience seeing the butanding or whale sharks up close. Catching a glimpse of them, of course, is another happy surprise and treasured moment, as they do not always grace visitors with their presence.

It’s the province itself,” says Naval on what he thinks makes Sorsogon worth visiting. “To me Sorsogon… the landscape, the vegetation… it’s different from any other place.”

Recently, Naval headed the Kasanggayahan Festival, which they have rebranded to center around the first mass in Luzon, which took place in the tiny fishing village of Gibalon. The festival, which was a first for the Sorsoganons, brought everyone out to the streets to celebrate the history of their province.

A colorful reenactment of the coming of the Spanish friars and soldiers was performed, complete with higantes – larger than life versions of the main characters involved in the event.

Bicolano culture was also celebrated – in a modern way – with a cosplay contest wherein participants dressed up as creatures from the region’s rich folklore. The Parau Princess – clad in an outrageous multi-colored gown made of abaca that evoked the parau sails – won the top prize. Fittingly, she represented the town of Pilar, one of the latest areas that the Sorsogon local government is developing as a tourist destination.

It is Naval’s goal to make the festival, as well as the province’s many attractions, well known not only among the locals, but also nationwide and even internationally. After all, “kasanggayahan” means prosperity, and Sorsogon is surely rich with natural treasures just waiting to be discovered.