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Starweek Magazine

The sublime and the historied

- Lydia Castillo - The Philippine Star

Those are two adjectives that marked the conversations we had a few days ago with two young entrepreneurs. The former refers to a new brand of chocolate confections, the latter is in reference to the menu of a new restaurant branch in Makati.

What is sublime? It is an elevation to a level higher than fine, nearly heavenly. Villa des Conte from Padova, Italy threatens the chocolate industry with future dominance through a collection of confectionery masterpieces whose origin dates back 75 years.

While Padova boasts of medieval and renaissance art and architecture, it is also home to the cioccolato sublime, artisanal chocolates produced by three generations of the Cattapan family. 

Vince refers to the product as “the Hermes of chocolates,” hence the basic colors of their packaging are brown and orange. He and his wife Rhoda are chocolate fanciers and when they met Enrico Nazzareno Cattapan and his Filipino wife Eliza in Italy, a deal was sealed. They were going to bring the sublime confection to the Philippines.

Thus a few days ago, Enrico and Eliza were whipping chocolate in the open kitchen of the stately Cru at the Marriott Hotel in Resorts World, to the delight of a group of chocolate fanciers.

What makes their product heavenly? They are handcrafted.We saw how tedious this was, but the couple obviously finds much joy and pride in their craft.

Their cocoa beans are sourced from various countries, including Papua New Guinea. They adhere to high cacao ratios to ensure the desired intense taste. We wonder if our local cacao would merit their nod of approval.

Manilans will definitely find pleasure in the variety of their offerings of shapes and rich flavors consisting of the Classics and the Premiums – praline balls with different fillings including cereals, sticks with banana cream, praline domes like the brown with whisky mocha and light brown with salted toffee.

Plus the truffles – marron glace, walnut and fig fillet. They can customize gift boxes. Visit any of their stores in Shangri-La Plaza Mall, Greenbelt 5, Resorts World and Trinoma and be treated to a sublime chocolate treat.

Historied refers to what has been part of a memorable past. It took the heirs of the late statesman Carlos P. Romulo to establish a restaurant chain and make available to gourmands and gourmets the dishes served and cooked by their elders, including the elegant lady, his first wife Virginia Llamas.

Sandee is the granddaughter of the general. Her husband Enzo Squillantini comes from an Italian family who settled in Malaysia at the turn of the century, when they met some prominent Filipinos who successfully enticed them to come to this country. They loved it and stayed. 

Today, their heirs are successful entrepreneurs doing well in the food industry.       

With friends Yong Nieva and Ivy Almario’s concept, they established the first Romulo Café in Quezon City, with “a sense of history.” Decorated with Romulo memorabilia, making a visit to the restaurant some sort of a historical tour. Another granddaughter, Liana, is the curator.

The Romulo menu was an instant success with diners who fancy the old familiar, un-enhanced and non-infused dishes, some of which are rather tedious to prepare at home.

One day a week ago, PR lady Joy invited us to a lunch-rienda (coined by Enzo), held from 2 to 4 p.m., in the second Romulo Café in Makati, which is similarly decorated. This is the first  branch of the chain, an answer to their regulars and potential clients who live away from QC. Maybe next is Alabang? But don’t let this timing mislead you, the place serves lunch and dinner at traditional times, too.

The Virginia chicken relleno is a must order. The filling perfectly blends the flavors of its various elements, truly maka-luma, served with traditional sauce. Tito Greg’s kare-kare is authentic with the thickened peanut and roasted rice sauce, while the crispy pata is a new take on the binagoongan.

Dining here would sometimes give one the opportunity to see – or even meet – some dignitaries and celebrities. It is an ideal place to have what is truly Filipino cuisine. Call 332-7273.

 E-mail comments and questions to [email protected].

CARLOS P

CLASSICS AND THE PREMIUMS

ENRICO AND ELIZA

ENRICO NAZZARENO CATTAPAN

ENZO SQUILLANTINI

MAKATI

ROMULO

ROMULO CAF

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