Hallelujah Putrajaya

MANILA, Philippines - “Don’t forget your passports, please!”

That was the constant but gentle reminder of the ever-hospitable officers and always-gracious staff of the Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board. They insisted that we bring our official document, and yet they assured us that we weren’t leaving the country. Intrigued, I stuffed the travel ID in my bag and joined the rest of the invited international media attending the 2012 Annual Conference of the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA), the global group that promotes travel and tourism within the region, in Kuala Lumpur for our undercover, much-talked-about, afternoon-to-night tour of Putrajaya.

We comfortably drove some 30 kilometers south from the capital city, and as we were approaching the final destination, I began to like what I saw. As far as the eye could see, there was a rolling landscape of large gardens. When we got closer, more small patches of green and flowering islands in the middle of the multi-lane roads appeared. There were several pockets of water, most prominent of which was the over 400-hectare Putrajaya Lake that spanned the entire territory. In between the greens of plants and the blues of water, there were ever-so-wide avenues, dotted with lamp posts at close intervals, and unique – to say the least – bridges that linked the different districts. This amazing play on man-made nature and huge open areas formed a pretty picture of the awesome master-planned city.

Dubbed as the Intelligent Garden City, the almost 5,000-hectare Putrajaya – a name that meant “princes’ success” – is the federal administrative capital of Malaysia. “It is a proud symbol of Malaysia’s aspiration to be a developed nation,” proclaimed our guide.

The tour passed by Putra Square, a configuration of two concentric plazas used for parades and festivals. Its intricate design, which was what you would see from a bird’s eye view, stood for old and new Malaysia. The 300-square-meter park featured an 11-pointed star to represent the 11 states of old Malaya, an inner 13-pointed star to symbolize the 13 states of the country today, and a 14-pointed star to depict the new federal capital. The circle that encompassed everything expressed unity.

We finally made it to our first stop, Seri Perdana, the residence of the present and future prime ministers of Malaysia. The usually off limits mansion was opened for us. Here, my passport came in handy. It served as my ticket into the complex.

As it is home to the leader of the country, the very modern Seri Perdana is comparable to our historic Malacañang Palace. A large ceremonial hall reminded me of the Heroes Hall, where ceremonial awards are bestowed and deserving Filipinos are honored. The smaller salons, which served as venues for courtesy calls with guests or for dialogues with more intimate groups, are akin to our State Dining Room or Music Room.

The Malaysian leaders appeared to be lovers of photographs. There were numerous large portraits of Prime Minister Mohd Najib Abdul Razak and spouse Rosmah Mansor and other members of Malaysian officialdom and their wives. There were also images with many of the past eras’ visiting VIPs from all over the globe, majority of which were from the Moslem World.

We moved on to the Sri Perdana Gallery, a museum-like area that showcased and highlighted the various gifts and souvenirs presented to the prime ministers through the years by foreign and local dignitaries. The displays were divided into the materials that were used in the artifacts such as copper, ceramics, and crystals and further sub-divided into their utilitarian use, as in items for music or decor. Each of the over 2,500 treasures had stories to tell.

I readily spotted two gifts from the Philippines – a small glass sculpture of a carabao pulling a cart and a painting of a colorful jeepney from a general of the Armed Forces of the Philippines.

In all, there were three main blocks in Seri Perdana: the Main Reception and Protocol Block, the Banquet Facilities Block, and the living quarters of the prime minister. After touring the rest of the estate, high tea was served – remember, Malaysia is part of the Commonwealth – and we loitered in the conservatory.

Speaking of greens, we found ourselves at the Taman Botani next. The oasis, the largest botanical garden in the country, is a sanctuary for plants and a center for its education and research. The 92-hectare park is divided into three sections: flowers, ornamental plants, and preservation. You could view over 700 species of plants from Malaysia, Asia Pacific, and Africa. One of the crowd drawers was the Brunfelsia bloom found in the Sun Garden. The flower changes colors, from purple to pink to white. We weren’t able to witness the transformation completely as we had to move on.

Also in this zone, the Moroccan Pavilion is believed to be the first example of contemporary Moroccan Islamic craftsmanship in the region. As an exhibit of Moorish art and architecture, it focused on traditional furniture and handicrafts. There were, for example, marble fountains with zellij tile work, carpets with floral and geometric designs, table chests that store food for high tea, brass trays, and even silver daggers.

Without fail, I must mention the many marvelous bridges that we encountered during our tour. We crossed one bridge and, before long, came upon another that was more captivating than the one before. This went on and on like the crescendo of song, with each passage becoming more intricate, more fabulous, more alluring, more beautiful.

Here are a few of my favorites: The Seri Wawasan Bridge appeared like a sail frozen in the wind. The futuristic creation was made of  cable backstays and steel ties and had three-lane carriageways. The Seri Bakti Bridge, also known as the Bridge of Dignified Elegance, derived its streamlined design from Islamic architecture. Minaret-like pavilions, each with an observation deck, and lamp posts and guard rails, which matched the architecture of the promenade, were found along the nine-span crossing. 

Considered as the jewel in the crown of the Putrajaya bridges, the Putra Bridge had geometric designs spread on large walls. The four tower-type piers, overlooking the Putrajaya Lake, housed fine dining restaurants, while the upper level formed part of the Putrajaya Boulevard. This three-deck bridge serviced vehicles, a monorail, and pedestrians.

Finally, the group headed for the Putrajaya Lake Cruise. While delighting in our gourmet dinner, I took note of the other must-see places for a future trip. Putra Perdana, for example, is the time capsule structure that was built to commemorate the Putrajaya project. In its general area, all the various ministry buildings are found, much like how Quezon City was envisioned by the early Americans.

Other sites that we were advised to explore include the Putra Mosque, the famous pink mosque that is the main place of worship of Putrajaya, and the Warisan Pertanian or the Agriculture Heritage Park, where a variety of tropical fruit trees, herbs and spices, and other commercial crops are found. Bargain shopping at the bazaar-like Souq and the Selera Putra or Medan Selera, the main food centers that house restaurants, cafés, and eateries, are not to be missed, as well.

The evening boat ride wended its way across the meandering man-made lake, offering more of the sights and landmarks of the magnificent city. Nightfall provided a breathtaking perspective as Putrajaya was bathed in lights. As beacons were turned on in the street lamps, bridges, and buildings, near or far, Putrajaya appeared as a shining city of the future that you can enjoy today.