Re-visiting Caliraya

A mid the frenzied preparation for Christmas and the optimistic anticipation of the coming year, the family took a breather and hied off to a lake-mountain resort for two full days of R & R. Little bundles, meaning the children, enthusiastically hopped on to two vehicles  with their elders and merrily sang their way to a joyful bonding session.

A two-and-a-half hour drive from Alabang took us to Caliraya Springs Golf and Country Club, rising 1,000 feet above sea level, where Lake Caliraya provides a cool and healthy climate for those wanting to escape pollution, if only for a short while. During the initial stages of its development, we were lucky to have been there, but that was a long time ago. That was when the place was a  private playground for the high and mighty.

In the years that passed, Caliraya expanded into many enclaves of resort-type facilities. This time, re-visiting it was pure pleasure of recalling times past, and discovering what it has become today. We were welcomed at The  Residence, the golf club headquarters, a majestic building done in Spanish Mediterranean architectural lines with an expansive view, from the veranda, of the lake and mountains that seem to touch the clear blue skies.

Laguna being our beloved home province, we knew that we would have a respite from the heavy and rich food of the holidays.True enough, the first dinner we had started with a soothing broth of bits of chicken and beef, cooked in their natural flavors, as nilaga, enhanced by strips of leeks. We asked for beef salpicao as our main course, but while it was a departure from the usual Spanish version, it was a savory dish of tender strips of beef from which we discerned a sweetish taste, quite a unique and most welcome innovation. The pinakbet was the best we have had. It had pieces of fried pork spare ribs with the usual combination of vegetables, in a bagoong-laced sauce.

The boys (fathers, grandfather and respective children and grandchildren) in the group went fishing and came back with jumping cream dory, three kilos of them. We actually thought these were kandule with their silvery skin. The kitchen did a very good job, serving them grilled  and as sinigang. Truly Laguna!

We found ourselves in an unexpected culinary journey on our the way back home. In Calauan there is this dining place called Fresh Catch Isdaan Floating Restaurant and Fantasy (Fun Park) World. Fantasy, indeed, but some people might find this a bit weird as it combines a strange but overwhelming mix of giant statues of buddha (male and female), fighting cocks, likenesses of Cory and Erap, and sturdy bahay kubos over water where meals are served. It is also the home of the singing cooks.

Color was lent by the staff, the ladies were in kimona’t saya with garlands, and the men wearing camisa de chino and Santa hats. They need more training though, as one girl completely forgot two of our orders. At a little past 2 p.m., she was hurrying out after her shift,  and shrugged off our order of bibingka.

Isdaan is owned and managed by a group of popular chains, including Barrio Fiesta and Manukan, hence the menu is extensive, but the offerings are mostly familiar to diners who frequent their restaurants in Metro Manila. We had isang bilaong fried seafood with  the rare and crispy tawilis (P689.85). Intriguing was the adobong matandang baka, which must have been simmered for hours to tenderize the meat. While guests dine, a group performs native songs and dances.

Desserts are the old faves – leche flan, halo-halo and the much delayed bibingka.

Pasalubongs are plenty, in three areas of the complex. There is Aling Nening’s by the entrance. We found the latest version of the polvoron, called chocvoron, because the powdered sweet is rendered firm and solid by its thick and solid chocolate coating (in various flavors) that makes it easy to bite. They are individually packed and labelled. This is manufactured in San Pedro, Laguna. They have received various awards.

From Liliw, famous for their tsinelas, comes the uraro biscuits, while broas come from Mazapan Sweets.

Two more  stops, one through a detour to Bagumbayan, Los Baños, for Gil’s kesong puti (big, not puny things as the ordinary ones peddled along the street are) and to the makers of the Original’s buko pie which always attracts a long line of travelers. It is a class above the others, the crust melts in the mouth and the buko, creamy. Unfortunately they were out of stock. Better luck next time.

For a 48-hour trip, we did get our fill of Laguna cuisine and its many kakanins and pasalubongs. Our baskets were full. Time well spent, indeed.

E-mail comments and questions to [email protected].