A Pilgrim's piece of peace

Manila, Philippines - Absolutely and definitely, the Camino de Santiago de Compostela is not a walk in the park. And yet Father Manuel Leandro Domingo did it twice.

Whatever path one chooses – be it the shorter Camino Ingles, the coastal way of Camino del Norte or the more popular and longer walk through Camino Frances – it could take up to more than three months to complete the Camino, trod by travelers for the past thousands of years to reach the 12th century Santiago de Compostela Cathedral where the relic of the Apostle St. James the Greater is believed to rest.

Through thick forests, stretches of barren land, hills and mountains, with the danger of losing one’s way, it is a laborious pilgrimage.

It took him 37 days to finish the more than 770-kilometer walk, admittedly at a leisurely pace.

In 2010, he crossed almost 1,500 kilometers by foot from St. Jean Pied-de-Port in France, arriving at the Cathedral in Spain after 71 days. Listening to the pilgrim’s story has revealed a myriad of anecdotes of survival, friendship and devotion. Here are some excerpts of Fr. Manny’s camino to Santiago de Compostela:

What inspired you to take this journey?

In 2000, while visiting Philadelphia, I watched a newscast that featured Shirley MacLaine doing this walk to Santiago de Compostela. The number of miles triggered my curiosity: 1,500 miles. I searched for materials about the Camino, to the extent that I even wrote to the Spanish Consulate General in New York for more information. I received this book written by Millan Bravo Lozano, a Spanish scholar and professor, which provided historical facts on the Camino, complete with directions. It took nine years before I could actually do my first pilgrimage.

The town of Estaing is considered as one of the most beautiful villages in France.

In 2009, a new chapter of my life was unfolding, with the death of my dear mother and the end of my term as parish priest, and both eventually sparked my journey to Santiago. Missing the chance to properly mourn, I needed the Camino to honor her memory and finally accept the fact that she had passed on. And during that time, Tita Cory (Aquino) was very sick. I likewise offered the trip for her recovery.

How did you prepare for such journeys?

I did badminton every Monday, yoga every Wednesday in addition to my daily walks. This I found to be very helpful. It also allowed me to pace myself, so you may know what your body is capable of, how fast or how leisurely you should move given a particular distance. If you’ll take the pilgrimage yourself, I suggest that you first acclimatize in the country – most particularly the city – where you plan to start. Arrive three to four days before. That way, your body can adjust to the environment.

You would encounter the extremes of weather. It could be staggeringly hot such that I wanted to drink an ocean. A few days later, there was continuous rain and I was totally drenched, near sickness. The terrain was unpredictable with upward-downward paths – the descent being the most difficult – and tricky loose stones that, with one wrong footing, would mean a bad fall.

What sort of equipment should one carry?

Remember that what you carry is your load for the rest of your journey, so limit yourself to the essentials. The suggested weight of your bag should be 10 percent of your body, no heavier than that. If you are thinking, “Oh, I’ll take it with me just in case,” then that is a clue for you not to bring it.

Discipline yourself: only the indispensable. I actually brought more than I should have: bringing five sets of clothes when I could have survived with just three. One could do washing every day. Climacool or dry-fit shirts are best, because they cool the body and they dry easily after washing. Make sure you have the right kind of shoes – comfortable trekking shoes. Then cushion your feet. The first is cotton sock liner, the second something thicker such as sports socks. Thanks to these, I was blessed to have completed the pilgrimage without a single blister.

The Castle of the Knight Templars in Ponferrada (top). The Nive River passes through St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, the village at the foot of the Pyrenees, a favorite starting point for pilgrims along the Camino Frances (above). Pilgrims approach the Plaza de Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (right).

I did bring a camera, though. A simple one on my first trip, then a better one on the next since by then I was planning to write a book. A small first-aid kit would be advisable, especially for someone who relies on medicine.

More importantly, one needs a staff to keep his balance while walking, and it can be useful for other purposes such as shooing off dogs, although they seldom bother the pilgrims.

Along the road, we replenished our jugs of water and plucked low-bearing fruits such as apples and peaches. It was much more convenient rather than to carry baon, more so when every gram becomes heavier by the minute.

Describe a typical day in the life of a pilgrim.

Normally I wake up at six in the morning, breakfast in the albergues and before seven I’ll be on the way.

My pacing would vary with my mood and physical stamina – I can get as gung ho as 20 to 25 kilometers a day and as leisurely as 10 to 15. I wasn’t very rigid or strict with the distance. Every once in a while, you would stumble upon an interesting site that would be worth stopping for.

As night closes in, I get into an albergue, rest and massage my feet, wash my clothes, and enjoy light conversation with fellow pilgrims over delectable home-cooked dinner. Then I recall the whole day’s work, and plan for the next. Oh, yes, there would usually be an 8 pm mass for the pilgrims, while for those of other faiths, blessings are given by the priest for a safe journey ahead.

And at this time come the realizations. “Why am I burdening myself with so much?” I asked, after realizing I could live for a month or even two with just a few clothes and other possessions in my bag.

It was almost a metaphor of life: we burden ourselves with too many unnecessary things. A liberating experience, after the Camino I reminded myself once again, “I don’t need this.” You simplify your life, and you find that so many things really are just superfluous.

Was there no fear of getting lost along the way?

I didn’t carry a map, but the route had marks that gave directions. They could be anything on anything. But the most popular was the scallop shell, a symbol of St. James. Others were the spray-painted yellow arrows and the kilometer signs posted on all possible places – rocks, buildings, trees, poles and concrete pillars.

Many a time, I was so into the vibe of the walk, enjoying the path along the forest, or caught in deep reflection that I overlooked my surroundings, and got lost.

The hot and arid Mezeta stretches from Burgos to Astorga, a distance of more than 200 kilometers.

Do you recommend traveling alone or with a companion?

If you were alone, you could easily decide if you wanted to pass by this town or city, skip its outskirts or simply spend more time in the area without having to discuss, argue, or convince anyone. Yet, it is also good, perhaps even ideal, to have a companion. You feel more comfortable.

One of the things I really appreciated during the Camino was finding people who were looking out for each other. I believe that since we share the same dream – the same aspiration of reaching for Santiago de Compostela – everyone’s just concerned about everyone else. Like when somebody stops, the soon-to-be-overtaking walker will always take the time to ask, “Are you okay? Do you need help?”

You share with these people why you’re there, and believe me, everyone would have his or her own reason. A 19-year-old wanted breathing time and space between high school and college, so he could decide which course to take. One was trying to come to terms with her anger and was hoping that doing the Camino would allow her to reflect on the choices she had made. There was one mother who was still trying to reconcile with the suicide of her son.

Among the people you met along the Camino, who in particular made a deep impact on you?

A girl from Mexico. She walked for her boyfriend who had died in a car accident. They were supposed to get married. Her boyfriend had also done the Camino.

We prayed together. Then she brought out a picture of her boyfriend. “Father, what must I do with this?” she asked me, saying that it was like a burden to her. I suggested, “Let’s leave his picture in the crypt,” thinking that it was the closure she needed for that chapter of her life.

That was also the time when I found myself crying as I shared with her that the main reason for my first pilgrimage was my mother.  

Going to such a far away place, did you ever feel disconnected?

Fr. Manny Domingo with Alexandre from Quebec, Canada at the Welcome Camino de Santiago Marker in Palencia.

Ay, let me tell you. I thought I was fine until my mobile phone fell into a pool of water. It automatically refused to charge and finally conked out on me. I could not text or call and receive texts and calls – instantly completely out of touch. I was so depressed. It was just a month into the pilgrimage – barely halfway – and to make it even worse it was two days before my birthday.

Eventually I realized, “What am I so worried about?” There was a time when I had lived without a phone, a newspaper, a radio, a television, e-mail or the Internet. So many realizations about modern living came after that: I could live without all these things. I may have been out of touch, but I felt no fear. In fact, I was happy.

In the end, what did the Camino mean for you as a traveler and a priest?

I completed the pilgrimage to Santiago with a remarkable sense of relief from the rigors of walking. I enjoyed the company of new-found friends who shared amazing stories of life, whether in jubilee or grief, over wonderful food in the albergues. There were so many sights to see and landscapes that were beautiful beyond imagination.

Beyond these joys, the Camino afforded me space and long moments where and when I could reflect about my life. As priests, we often spend all of our time with people that we serve, hardly having schedules for ourselves. Oftentimes we need the space for ourselves to be alone with God – to pray, to reflect on my vocation and to review my life as a priest.

I really valued the silence and the solitude, the simplicity and the nomadic brotherhood. I think the pace of walking afforded me the kind that is very conducive for prayer and reflection, when, for days and weeks on end, you can be with no one else but your Redeemer.

Fr. Manny Domingo will give a lecture on the Camino de Santiago Compostela on July 25 at the Roozen Hall, after the 6 pm mass at the Don Bosco Parish Church, Makati City. For more information, call 894-5932.