The metamorphosis of a coffee shop

Four decades ago, Rustan’s attached a coffee shop called Blast Off to its supermarket in Quezon City, giving shoppers a respite after filling up their grocery carts. Comfort food was served. Then it evolved into Yum Yum Tree at the same time that Bon Apetite (a more upscale dining place) started operation in an upper floor of the department store. Yum Yum became our favorite stop, especially for their lomi. We not only passed by before or after shopping, but also to sip a cup of hot coffee while waiting for our appointments. Quite recently, it became Le Gourmet, the name connoting an addition of the French flavor to its menu, as well as offering a selection of imported deli items from different countries.

Two weeks ago, we walked into Benny’s Café, completing the coffee shop’s metamorphosis to a classy restaurant that reverted to traditional Filipino food (including lomi) and given a nouveau twist by culinary consultant Beth Romualdez. Its opening marked the 40th year of the supermarket. It is unique given that it could be the only 5-star dining place located inside a supermarket, elegantly done in beige and burgundy.

According to Tantoco third generation heir Donnie, Benny’s was the first restaurant in Italy where his Lolo Ambassador Biebvenido Tantoco Sr. brought him during one of their travels together. Being named Bienvenido, called Benny, what better tribute can his grandchildren give him than naming an elegant dining place with good food after him? Benny’s is now open, offering the impeccable service Rustan’s is known for.

Pasta lovers will appreciate a counter by the entrance of Benny’s where fresh pasta (pumpkin ravioli, agnolotti, quadrati, gnocchi and linguini) can be bathed with any sauce from a selection that includes aglio plio, ragu bolognese, wild mushoom and alfredo. We give a thumbs up to the wild mushroom sauce.

The ‘twist’ in the Filipino menu? The chico shake refreshes and whets the appetite. Ensaladang pako at itlog na maalat made us start to appreciate the vine. Pork binagoongan is cooked with whole calamansi, giving it a pleasantly sour-ish taste. The butterflied crispy pla-pla is plated with fresh mustasa leaves and balaw-balaw sauce. There is aligue and pinakbet flavored rice in cone-shaped banana leaves.

Give your taste buds a revival of Filipino flavors… our food has always been delicious.

We recently spent half a day at the Organic Vegetable EchoFarm in Amadeo, Cavite, an hour away from our base. We had an enlightening talk with Niel Cris, who is too shy to call himself an agriculturist. He is basically in charge of pest management and inter-cropping, which enables a flat bed to be used for more than a single plant species, like planting chili plants between basil.

They have baby and full grown arugula, which has its nutty texture but with less bitterness. It was good to see turmeric (luyang dilao), normally grown upland. The farm is utilized to maximum capacity. There is coffee, santol trees, banana plants, patola and sitao.

From there we moved on to the Cavite State University where the pervading strong coffee aroma made us crave for the beverage at mid-day. The institute helps coffee farmers produce a competitive and substantial amount of beans. The industry suffered so heavily that some of the lots have been converted. Due to low income (compared to the past), the farmers have been forced to sell their farms and have stopped planting. Those interested in coffee farming and business can catch up with “Coffee Origins” mounted by the Philippine Coffee Board in celebration of Coffee Month. There are seminars, exihibits and free coffee at Greenbelt 5.

Our last stop was at Refreshers, a gourmet diner on KM 52, Aguinaldo Highway, Silang, Tagaytay. The restaurant is known as a pioneer of organic food, mainly vegetables. The sprawling area houses the restaurant (serving good coffee, of course, under the brand name Gourmet’s, available in supermarkets) and roasting facility, which we think is a unique combination.

Have a good Sunday. How are you doing with your Christmas preparations?          

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