Old friend

MANILA, Philippines - It’s like welcoming back an old friend, or rather, being welcomed back by an old friend who’s been away for a while. And even remodeled her house for the homecoming.

I knew she wouldn’t leave for good, no matter the promise of greener pastures in other parts of town (Greenbelt in Makati and Serendra in Taguig). So, after 16 months, 1771 is back – not as a chateau but a cafe, with a charm all her own…and a few surprises too. Comparison between the then and now is, of course, inevitable; the thing is to see if taste and memory can co-exist.

Café 1771 at El Pueblo Real de Manila in Ortigas Center, Pasig opened its white doors last month. Instead of the wood and grilles of the old Chateau, a bright, open and airy foyer welcomes you. This area has been baptized The Whimsy, but it is homey more than whimsy, and truly invites you to inspect the counter for what delectables it has to offer. Here you can compose your own meal, anything from breakfast to merienda to lunch to tea and dinner. We made a mental note to try out their scones, as well as the much-touted Swiss Cheese Toast which can be topped with prosciutto or home-made ham; grilled vegetables are also an option.

Our breakfast quartet visited one Saturday morning, and we had the place to ourselves, which was good as we were free to have them turn down the airconditioner, and lower the volume of the in-house music. We also had the full attention of the wait staff, who thankfully did not hover but were discreetly within waving distance whenever we needed anything – a coffee refill, an extra plate (we eat very communally, so there is a lot of passing food around), a pot of hot water…

A couple of days later we visited again, this time for lunch – and real food. We took a table in the main dining area, referred to as The Lounge, which has the feel of a library in some manor, with tall French windows and books and photos on shelves. Chairs are nice and comfortable, and table linen impeccable.

And the food? No disappointment there. Aside from our all-time favorites Cesar salad (the only one in town my picky goddaughter will eat), lemon chicken and pasta chorizo, there are new intriguing items on the menu that are worth trying.

That lunch I opted for the Korean ribs in guava glaze, and have now added it to my list of favorites. I unceremoniously stuck a spoon into the lamb shoulder chops of my lunchmate, and hmmm…that too was good, rich and saucy, lovely on rice.

Other items I made a note of trying are fettucine alfredo – “the real thing” it says not the menu – as well as pig’s ears pepperoncino (for a day when I’m adventurous!) and fried squash flowers, which I love, theirs stuffed with an anchovy-flavored béchamel.

I mention this for the apparently large segment of the dining crowd who like salmon – I’m not one of them – there is quite a selection of salmon dishes: salmon cheeseburger, mushroom and smoked salmon pizza, salmon lasagna, lacquered salmon steak. There are several sardines dishes too, but carnivores need not despair, as there are enough beef, lamb, pork and chicken dishes, and a nice selection of sausages, to satisfy the famished.

And as I never leave a restaurant without it, I had dessert – a nice chewy lemon torte this time, which I chose over the standard coffee pie and eight other items in the dessert menu – and a nice pot of tea.

It’s great to have my old friend back in my neighborhood. Now if only I can get them to open on Sundays too….