Our long-delayed market research in Lemery and Taal, Batangas took place one mid-week day. While we have been to markets in these towns, this trip was a guided tour (by a gracious niece and her in-laws) of the palengkes capped by a very satisfying lunch of Batangas food, including tag-hilao, a delicious dish of pork innards that is between kinilaw and kilawin.For soup we had their version of bulanglang, with potatoes and banana blossoms flavored with camias.
It was a pleasant drive of 2 hours and 20 minutes to get to Lemery. Immediately we were served typical snack fare of suman (the small sweetish type) and tamales, which were uniquely small–2-inch cubes–and more flavorful than any tamales we have had. We walked to the public market, stopping for blessing at the parish church. Sadly there was no tawilis but we found the tamales, which cost P7 a pair. Very hungry individuals can easily finish two pairs. Batangueños have their own unique names for their produce. Pa-sibol is actually bean sprouts and apda (P5 a small cup) is much like our bagoong. The locals sauté this in garlic, tomatoes and onions and that is already ulam. Tablia is the chocolate ball and balinghoy is kamoteng kahoy or cassava. Rich indeed is the Filipino language.
A short bridge connects Lemery to Taal. As we entered the market we were overwhelmed by the rows of shops selling ready-made bridal gowns/barongs and renting out other evening outfits. Embroidery is such an industry here that even the pillow cases are embroidered. Our target that day was Batangas tapa. The Panganiban store does this very well, but guess what, it is pork and not beef, which we thought it was the first time we tried this. The secret is in the marinade. The saleslady won’t tell you the secret, she’ll just pour more of the mixture to go with your tapa (P180 a kilo).The longganiza is just as flavorful (P200 a kilo). This was where we found the tamales and the suman (P3 each). As we were buying our smoked tulingan (P35 apiece) we were given a tip –Batangas tilapia is the most flavorful in the country. True enough, the fried version we had was extra succulent, its belly soft, with that melt-in-the-mouth texture. Maybe one day we have to do a more extensive research of Batangas food.
We have been told that lots of Manilans have been motoring to Guagua, Pampanga for the now famous Razon’s halo-halo. Well, rejoice, because they are now in Metro Manila, at the Food Court of Robinson’s Galleria and on Julia Vargas Street. Appearance-wise it didn’t look special–it had only sweet macapuno and sweet bananas plus a generous topping of leche flan. Taste it and you’ll know the difference. The ice is crushed very fine and guided by our sensitive palette, we surmised the cream used is the secret. This was confirmed by the granddaughter of the innovator (who came up with it in 1972).
Thanks to our friend Charisse of the Mandarin hotel, we caught the last day of the Mindanao Food Fest. We particularly enjoyed the hito with coconut milk and the Colasa Chicken. It’s good to know that Mindanao manufacturers have gone into making salsas and pickles (Nenita Farms), juices and cocktail drinks (Jerca) and virgin coconut oil, durian jam and dried mangoes (Sodaco and Sungee). Keep going!
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