Don’t Rain on My Parade

Bacolod put its best face forward for the annual MassKara festival, a time of revelry that started 22 years ago when the province was in deep economic depression. Sugar prices were tumbling, the powers that be then in Manila were not looking favorably on this city of hacienderos, so they responded in the best way they knew how. They hid behind smiling masks and danced in the streets.

The weather last Saturday was so bad the first flight of the day had to return to Manila. We weren’t sure we would fly at all until the plane took off. But when we landed in Bacolod an hour later it was a glorious day.

Inclement weather is part of Bacolod life and history. It was bad weather that set Bacolod’s charter day on October 19: President Manuel L. Quezon signed Presidential Proclamation 322 establishing the City of Bacolod on September 30, 1938, but the inauguration had to be postponed several times because of rain, until it was finally held on October 19, a "glorious Wednesday".

The people of Bacolod have thus learned to live with and party in the rain. On MassKara day last Sunday, an overcast morning sky took the edge off the heat, but by noon when the 24 MassKara groups were ready to get going, the skies let loose with torrential rains. Everyone stayed put though–dancers sashayed down wet streets and sloshed through muddy lots, the crowds huddled under umbrellas and, though drenched, the masks still smiled.

Twenty four barangays out of 33 applicants (Bacolod has a total of 61 barangays) qualified for the grand parade and competition. In addition, there were other non-competing groups from government and private offices who joined the parade. (In the morning there was a corporate parade, but the crowds were sparse.) The groups danced their way down the city’s main streets to the stadium for the main competition–a seven-minute routine that was a combination of disco dancing, gymnastics and cheering squad hoopla.

The day before, judging for costume, mask and headdress was held, and good thing too–with the rain and the vigorous movements, quite a few headdresses were severed, masks fell off and costumes were torn. (A male dancer among a line of females was literally "unmasked" when his headdress and mask fell off–and the crowd cheered.)

Months of preparation and a whole lot of money (up to P300,000 for the more elaborate; the city government gives each participating barangay P80,000, and the top prize is P125,000) go into costumes, masks and headdresses for 50 dancers. Sequins, feathers, beads, ruffles and glitter dust were de rigueur. Colors were bright–the gaudier the better was the rule of the day. Some barangays hired designers and choreographers from other cities like Cebu (with a tradition of Sinulog), but most used home-grown choreographers. Music was ear-splitting and intestine-thumping–loudspeakers and boom boxes set up every few meters along the streets made sure of that. Likewise, banners and streamers all over town on every available post and tree never let you forget that it’s MassKara time in Bacolod.

The parade and competition culminated the festival, but the week leading up to it was filled with celebrations. Sports competitions, trade fairs, a beauty contest (no Philippine fiesta worth its banderitas is without one), concerts, carnivals and a dizzying line-up of parties kept locals and visitors busy. Globe Telecoms, this year’s major sponsor, hosted a party each night of MassKara week.

A huge BARE party, which drew more bagets than I thought Bacolod had and caused a Manila-style traffic jam, was held on the eve of MassKara at the Quorum disco. Six models–plus a demurely sarong’d Paolo Rivera, he of "Live Show" in case the name doesn’t ring a bell–bared body paint jobs by local fine arts students. Text messages passed around among the audience included "How much r dey being paid 4 dis", "Mainit kaya?" and "Nice butt".

A revelation at Globe’s BARE party was the Pasalamat Drum Beaters band of nearby La Carlota City, ten guys with gold hair and gold-painted torsos banging out a fantastic beat on drums, cymbals and bamboo instruments. Forget techno–these guys have the beat!

Globe’s big push into the Visayas since its acquisition of Islacom has resulted in a strong and growing presence in the region. Reveals Leo Sanchez, director of corporate marketing of Globe Telecoms, a "challenge" during one of its parties for guests to throw away their old sim cards of other phone companies in exchange for new Globe sim cards attracted many takers. At all the parties, most of the guests held a drink in one hand and a cellphone–hopefully Globe–in the other. Bacolod is as connected as Manila is.

For those of us who can only party so much, Bacolod is happily more than MassKara. every visit to this "City of Smiles"demands a visit to the anp (Association of Negros Producers) Showroom for some wonderful craft and souvenir shopping. This time we landed a coveted (three other shoppers were eyeing it too) resin lamp by Christine Sicangco, and some sugar-cane candles. TV host Paolo Bediones should have placed his order for some lovely kamagong chairs by now.

The doll collection on display at the Negros Museum in the old capitol building was a real delight. Over 3,000 (and counting) dolls collected over three decades by a Montelibano matriarch takes one round-the-world in miniature. Next door to the museum was a plant fair, but I was given fair–and stern–warning not to even think of buying anything there!

Masskara season or not, Bacolod is always a charming place to visit. Doesn’t matter if it rains; the fun–like the parade–goes on.