Of Oils and Vinegars

As far back as we can remember, Filipinos have equated oil with frying and sauteing and vinegar with adobo, paksiw, sawsawan and pickling. Good enough but research and recent development in the food industry show that these two ingredients are now being exploited, rather deliciously, by food innovators, manufacturers, ‘ordinary’ but adventurous housewives and health gurus.

A book on oils and vinegars we brought home recently from Australia confirms the many culinary uses of oil–as ingredient, as a method of cooking, as condiment or on the table to drizzle on salad or as dip. The shrinking of the culinary world which resulted in the introduction of international cuisine (Italian, Spanish, French, Chinese and Mediterranean) opens a new door for cooks and foodies as they discover how oils and vinegars can enhance food.

Oil as cooking element is as important as your main ingredient. You need to be careful that the oil you choose does not overwhelm. Therefore for basic sauteing and frying, you need a bland type–vegetable, canola or corn oil. Remember that you fry because you want to seal the flavor as well as cook the meat or fish. Too much re-using of oil is not advised, it could be toxic.

The ‘royalty’ among all oils is olive oil, now seen more often on dining tables as condiment or bread dip. This is supposed to be the healthiest, and expensive as well. Olive oil entered our life when we started appreciating paella and cocido. Its unique aroma and flavor make this and similar dishes really special.

Olive oil has been used for thousands of years in Europe and the Middle East–from the time of Homer in 8 BC. We find this in the market today in varied grades–Extra Virgin which is the best quality with a pleasant bouquet, Pure and now Light. We used to think that Extra Virgin was the best for cooking but experts say we should use this only for salads and dips, like mixing it with balsamic vinegar, a bit of pesto sauce and grated cheese.

With the expanded consciousness of herbs and spices, there evolved flavored oils, which are actually infused with tarragon, basil, chili, etc. Again be sure that what you are cooking will not have a vari-flavored taste. Most of the flavored oils are ideal for pasta sauces.

Like oils, vinegars are historied, dating back to the Dark Ages, when it evolved from a "mistaken" blend. Again there are various types–cider, malt, wine and the most aristocrat of all, balsamic. Add to that our own coconut, sugar cane and rice vinegars, and more proudly our centuries-old sukang Iloko, the latter a blend of sugarcane juice, samak leaves, bark and seeds.

This makes us recall a funny incident in a so-called five-star hotel in Subic, when our then eight-year-old gourmet asked for a balsamic vinegar dip and got a spoonful of bagoong! Yes, in this part of the world, balsamic vinegar is late-entrant, but proved to be an instant success with local gourmets/gourmands. It is made from a special variety of sweet grapes grown in Modena, Italy where it is revered. It is not fermented in its early stages, thus retains a certain sweetness. Mostly used as main element of dips and salad dressings, blended with olive oil, it makes a good marinade for steaks, fish or chicken. It can even be used for adobo, as a sister recently did, for a very subtle tangy taste.

You can have flavored vinegars as well, easily made at home. Mix the vinegar with herbs, vegetables and/or fruits, and place in vari-shaped clear bottles to be used as decor, food supplement or gifts.

Oil and vinegar together make a perfect blend–as bread dip, as salad dressing and cooking condiments. We checked out the following supermarkets: Cherry–Diamond Walnut Oil, a conservative take-off from the expensive French version, by the makers of nuts in California; Pure Harvest Organic Canola; Heinz vinegar; S&W’s tarragon vinegar; Datu Puti’s sili and Silver Swan’s sukang puti. At Shopwise–Sparkingly Clear Apple Cider with Honey, Alino brand vinegar, saffron or mint flavored. At Makati Supermarket–Ybarra Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Borge’s Champagne Vinegar and Mang Kiko’s cane vinegar. Price range is wide, depending on the brand and the size of the bottles. There is a wide choice for marinades, salads and dips. Take your pick.