Riding along the Way of St. James

Legendary trains like the Orient Express or the Transsiberian railroad have lent glamour and romance to the idea of train travel.

Spain, which was one of the first countries to pioneer the steam locomotive in the mid-1800s, has a fleet of luxury trains that are bringing back the romance of that bygone era.

Foremost among them is the Tren Al Andalus, whose Belle Epoque features were fully restored before it started plying its route through Andalucia in southern Spain in 2012.

So successful was the route that Renfe (Red Nacional de Ferrocarriles Española), Spain’s state-run railway system, has introduced a new voyage through northern Spain that should be of special interest to Filipinos. Why? Because it follows the pilgrims’ progress along the Camino de Santiago, or Way of St. James, until you reach Santiago de Compostela, the third most important Catholic pilgrimage site after the Holy Land and Rome.

Si, pilgrims who can’t commit to a 100-km walk or 200-km bike ride but still want to experience the life-changing beauty of the Camino can do so from the luxurious comforts of the Tren Al Andalus. With Zaragoza as a starting point, it’s a six-day ride through the regions of Castilla, Leon and Galicia until you arrive at Santiago on the night of July 24, the Feast of St. James, which you can celebrate in town with the rest of the pilgrims.

“This itinerary combines religion with a cultural tour,” says Jose Antonio Rodriguez, head of Renfe’s Luxury Tourist Trains. “We planned a Jacobean trip using the French way to go to Santiago, and imitate the same route as the pilgrims. We tried to design something that most people would be interested in. The idea is to spend a day per city, then come back to the train for free time and rest, or you can choose to stay in the city and explore with a map.”

Belle epoque beauty

We begin our journey by catching a Renfe commuter train from Madrid to Zaragoza, where the Al Andalus is stationed. Seeing the train for the first time is like stepping onto Harry Potter’s magical Platform 9 3/4. You are transported back in time to the 1920s, when the French first built the train for use by British royalty on their summer travels from Calais to the Costa Azul.

The cream and chocolate-colored coaches have names like Alhambra, Giralda and Granada. Smiling staff, including our expedition director Marcelino Cortes and resident tour guide Carolina Pereña, are clad in vintage-looking uniforms, and always there to welcome you onboard or see you off.

We board, entering the bar car, and the trip back in time continues. Low lighting from small table lamps illuminates the rich, dark-wood interiors, with its plush furniture and linen-covered tables. The elegant atmosphere — laden with history and mystery — is so visually compelling that Hollywood has used the Andalus as a movie set: Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz filmed a memorable scene from Knight and Day here.

As the biggest among Renfe’s fleet, the Al Andalus is “comfortable compared to the northern trains,” notes Rodriguez. “That’s why Spanish trains are special: they’re like a hotel on wheels.”

Four lounge coaches for common use include two dining cars, the bar car and a tea lounge that we used as Internet Central. Though there’s only a lone computer station, free Wi-Fi is provided, as well as local and international publications and a flatscreen TV. The day’s activities are also posted in this lounge for people’s reference.

Having been reared on a diet of Agatha Christie novels and movies like North by Northwest and Strangers on a Train growing up, I was most excited about sleeping onboard, expecting to be lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the train. Which was not to be, as every night the train would dock at a station and we would sleep in motionless berths, just as in a hotel. With 32 suites, the train’s capacity is 64 passengers. I was assigned to one of the two original Standard cars that date back to the late 1920s — compact but beautiful with its inlaid wood, flower-bulb light fixtures, two single beds that fold up into sofas in the daytime, and private bathroom. (This is a definite improvement over the trains of yore, which had communal bathrooms.) Mod cons include air-conditioning, a minibar and room safe. And, of course, there’s a big picture window from which to take in the passing countryside.

Couples can stay in the more modern, roomy suites in the five Superior cars, which feature a queen-size bed and more spacious bathroom.

Wining, dining & sightseeing

Our days used to go like this: wakeup at 7:30 a.m. by a staff member who walks through the train ringing a bell. Breakfast in the dining car from 8 to 9 a.m., with a buffet that features different kinds of Spanish ham and cheese, including the Galician Tetilla cheese, huge slabs of grilled tostadas, and even churros con chocolate.

After breakfast we would leave the train and travel into town via the private bus that follows the Tren Al Andalus everywhere in order to transport passengers on their sightseeing trips. We’d usually have a city tour on foot before lunch at 2 p.m. Then we’d move by bus to another place of interest before heading back to the train in the early evening.

At around 8 p.m. the Andalus would commence traveling to the next town, while we had dinner onboard at 9 p.m. While mountains, villages and vineyards swept past the windows, attentive waitstaff served us Castilian and Galician delicacies — usually seafood salads and stews (from bacalao to barnacles) — and wines from nearby Rioja and Mencia del Bierzo Leones.

“We try to serve what is typical of the provincial food,” says Rodriguez. “We try not to repeat food during the trip, and have a sommelier to design wines and menus for high quality.”

A special highlight was our last night, when fellow passenger Gerry Dawes, a wine expert and blogger, held a wine tasting featuring six whites from Albariños Gallegos. He turned even us red-wine aficionados into white-wine believers.

After dinner we’d head back to our carriages pleasantly buzzed, tired and happy, looking forward to the surprises that awaited us the next day.

Day 1: Zaragoza to Miranda De Ebro

Sights not to miss:

• Catedral-Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar – Legend has it that Mother Mary appeared to the apostle James, who was disheartened while trying to spread the Gospel in the area. She told him to build a church in her honor, and this magnificent cathedral is the result.

• La Seo Cathedral – A UNESCO World Heritage site, this invaluable edifice contains medieval, renaissance and baroque elements. The Gothic-Mudejar wall of the parish church is a stunning example of Aragonese Mudejar art.

• Palacio del Aljaferia – This Islamic palace echoes the grandeur of Granada’s Alhambra with its Moorish arches and courtyards. Today it’s the seat of the Regional Assembly of Aragon.

Where to eat:

• Baldo – Despite an unprepossessing location within a mall complex, Baldo is a Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern Spanish food. Do try the authentic gazpacho, foie gras risotto and pork tenderloin, which is so fine in quality they dare to serve it raw.

Day 2: Miranda De Ebro to Astorga

Sights not to miss:

• The Marques de Riscal winery and hotel – With 37,000 barrels, this winery produces five million bottles a year of designer reds, rosés and whites that are Reserva, Gran Reserva or Crianza depending on what kind of barrel the wine sits in. At 12 euros a bottle, they’re very appealing sips. Attached to the winery is a hotel designed by Frank Gehry, which has deservedly become a landmark in the area.

• Burgos Cathedral – This gothic cathedral and World Heritage site is possibly the most beautiful church I’ve ever been to, and a significant site along the Way of St. James.

• Atapuerca – The dedicated archeologists at this dig have unearthed evidence of Neanderthals who lived as a community here and used tools to farm and hunt. Our passionate guide Sofia showed us the bones of a boy who lived 850,000 years ago, leading scientists to believe that our human origins date as far back as 1.5 million years ago.

Day 3: Astorga to Ourense

Sights not to miss:

• Episcopal Palace of Astorga – Architect Antoni Gaudi only made three buildings outside Barcelona, and this is one of them. Not enamored of doing religious buildings apart from his beloved Sagrada Familia, he never finished the levels above the first and second floors and left no plans for the succeeding architect. The levels that he did build, however, including a stained-glass-filled chapel, are must-sees.

• Town Hall – The building features an 18th-century clock with two Maragatos, or Moorish figures, that emerge to mark the hour.

• Las Medulas – Stark formations carved out of orange rock that turn out to be manmade. In 27 BC Romans under Emperor Augustus came to these mountains to mine gold, using systems of rushing water to blast the ore from the rock.

Where we ate:

• Ponferrada Castle – In this Templar castle we had our first taste of pulpo (octopus), the Galician specialty cooked with lots of olive oil and Spanish paprika.

Day 4: OURENSE TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

These cities mark our entrance into Galicia and the last stage of the pilgrims’ route. Last year Santiago got 2,014 pilgrims who walked 100 km, according to Nava Castro Dominguez, Secretary General of Turismo de Galicia. “Those with the certificates (or passports, in pilgrim parlance) are those counted.”

Sights not to miss:

• Pazo de Santa Cruz de Ribadulla – This manor was built in the 15th century and has 36 hectares of botanical gardens that are a peaceful respite for the weary soul, with its fountains, flowered paths and groves of ancient olive, palm and box trees. Winter is the best time to see camellias in bloom, according to Ruzo.

• El Pazo de Oca – Known as the Versailles of Galicia thanks to its magnificent gardens, complete with maze and manicured topiary.

• Cathedral of St. James – The culmination of the Way of St. James, pilgrims flock to the Portico de la Gloria, a Romanesque sculpture by master artist Mateo that highlights his rendering of the apostle. Other traditions include attending Mass where a censer billowing incense is swung from one end of the church to the other over the pilgrims’ heads, lining up to embrace a jewel-encrusted bust of James, then descending to the crypt to pray before his fabled remains, which are kept at a distance in a silver chest.

Where to eat:

• Restaurante Villa Verde – An excellent Galician seafood restaurant serving the freshest clams, tuna, and sardines with pimientos de Padron, salted green peppers you can pop in your mouth.

• Parador Nacional Reyes Catolicos – This parador, or five-star hotel constructed from an old palace or castle, features the noteworthy Restaurante dos Reis, a formal dining establishment where you can have a tasting menu that highlights the freshest shrimp and a truly amazing sea-scallop and prawn skewer. The langoustine salad, tomato cream soup with olive oil and a large oyster in the middle, and Galician veal hamburger are other signature dishes.

Day 5: Santiago De Compostela to a Coruña

Sights not to miss:

• Villagarcia de Arousa – We go by boat to this marine house famous for cultivating shellfish in an underwater farm you can view from the glass bottom, and enjoy freshly harvested mussels onboard with white wine.

• Fefiñans Palace – Located in Cambados, where they make Albariños wine, this Renaissance building from the 1600s shares space with a bodega and vineyards. You can have lunch under the grapevines with Galician specialty empanadas — both savory and sweet — and of course, lots of white wine.

• Pontevedra – A scenic city with a scallop-shaped cathedral that’s part of the Portuguese way, or camino

• Vigo – A quaint town with artisan boutiques down main street and seaside panoramas from the Monte do Castro.

Day 6: A Coruña

 Sights not to miss:

• Plaza de Maria Pita – Town Hall towers over this gorgeous square. At the center is a statue of the eponymous heroine, who led the fight against British invaders in the 16th century, facing off against Sir Francis Drake.

• Torre de Hercules – This Roman tower is the oldest working lighthouse in the world. To get to the top you’ll have to climb 242 steps.

• Celta Park – You’ll think you’re at Stonehenge when you see these Celtic monuments and statues perched on dramatic cliffs overlooking the sea.

• Zara’s first store – The headquarters of Zara’s mother company Inditex, founded by fashion emperor Amancio Ortega, is located in this thriving city.

A Coruña is the last stop on the tour and where we said goodbye to our fellow passengers, many of whom had become friends.

Rodriguez says the itinerary of the Tren Al Andalus is not fixed; Renfe can actually do bespoke trips — customize shorter tours for groups of international tourists who want to charter a train for a few days. (Other gems in the fleet include the El Transcantabrico and Expreso de la Robla, a cheaper train with fares affordable enough for teenagers.)

“Hopefully we will launch this new route in September 2014,” Rodriguez says, “though we will be selling tickets way ahead of time.”

It’s definitely a grand pilgrimage for those who long for a different way to St. James.

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For more information and reservations, contact Trenes Turisticos de Lujo-Renfe, tel. nos. 0034-985-981-711 and 0034-902-555-902; email trenesturisticosdelujo@renfe.es; or visit www.trenesturisticosdelujo.com. photos by Therese Jamora- Garceau