Bees, Birkenstocks and boiler suits

As bees and honeycombs figure in our collective design psyche, it seems that apian references are all the buzz. Consider Sarah Burton’s ornate spring-summer 2013 collection for Alexander McQueen: from the beekeeping headdresses the models wore during the runway show last September to the resin bustiers and cuffs, the busy insect influenced the creative director’s presentation.

London-based designer Marios Schwab also took inspiration from the resourceful creature. “He found in their humble industriousness a necessary reminder of the vital nurturing connection between nature and human nature, and that Nat Geo notion was really the foundation of a collection that aimed at celebrating the tribal, the ritual, the mythic,” writes Tim Blanks of Style.com. Schwab, whose family still tends their own beehives on the Greek island of Astypalea, spread hexagonal patterns on dresses by way of lacework.

According to the Wall Street Journal, bee venom is the latest anti-aging product, turning up in face creams, masks and serums. The rage originated in Britain, where in 2011, a press leak revealed that Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, tried a venom mask before the royal wedding. In April campaigners swarmed Parliament Square, London, for the March of the Beekeepers, a protest supporting a ban on bee-harming pesticides.

Functional, questionable footwear

This looks set to be the year of functional, questionable footwear. First there’s the Birkenstock. When Giambattista Valli and Céline’s Phoebe Philo put their own spin on the brand’s classic styles for spring, it was clear that the flat, open sandal — “last seen as a ‘fashion’ shoe in the 1990s,” according to the Guardian — was cool again. The Grunge staple has been around since 1910 but was launched in 1964.

Aside from Céline’s mink-lined bejeweled version — the French house’s “furkenstocks” are on course to become this season’s clear winner — the original double-strap style has also been ubiquitous. Stylists at Elder Statesman’s runway presentation, as part of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund competition, paired Los Angeles talent Gregory Chait’s designs with Birks, contributing to his winning look. Twenty pairs in classic white stomped down the spring/summer 2013 catwalk of menswear duo Agi & Sam during London fashion week. While the German company doesn’t collaborate, citing strict branding regulations, they will release a limited-edition men’s collection with J.Crew.

Adidas shower slides are also back on the radar. The clunky black-and-white striped sandals had their moment when Kurt Cobain was still alive, but they have re-emerged, first in fashion shoots then in runway shows. “In her 2014 resort collection,” reports Yahoo!, “New York City-based, British designer Misha Nonoo paired her graphic, modern, warm-weather looks with both Adidas sandals as well as black-and-white soccer shoes.”

If you don’t want to look like you take your cues from Amanda Bynes — or Mark Zuckerberg — try to track down Bottega Veneta’s Celeste Cuir sandal. Released two years ago, the sport-inspired slip-on is made from unusually durable leather. Not to be left out of a bourgeoning trend, Justin Bieber was recently spotted in Gucci’s black rubber slides, which he knowingly wore with socks, calling to mind Kevin Federline.

From Lanvin Tevas in 2011 to Céline Birkenstocks today — and now this? As Fashionista.com notes, “After years of comically high and impractical heels (remember those McQueen Armadillo shoes?) it seems the pendulum has swung back to more classic, wearable, and mercifully orthopedic-friendly shoes.”

Next year’s standout piece

As they say, one is an example, two is a coincidence and three is a trend. What about four or more? You can call it a movement, I guess. If several designers are to be believed, the humble boiler suit will be the standout piece for spring/summer 2014.

At London Collections: Men, Lou Dalton reinterpreted the blue collar uniform in mottled, crumpled fabric. In Paris, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver and Hermès’ Veronique Nichanian included it in their respective menswear collections. Jean Touitou, head of French label A.P.C., explains to the Esquire blog: “In this outfit we are looking at the 1980s looking at the 1950s, when guys had to work at the gas station to be allowed to take out their Dad’s car.” 

* * *

ginobambino.tumblr.com