Coron, as you like it

When I told my very cutey wifey we were going to Coron over the weekend, she panicked and rattled away: "How can three days be enough? Where will we get the money? Europe is too expensive!"

"What are you talking about," I asked, my eyebrows joined in a straight line and my eyes squinting.

"Cologne is in Germany, right?" she said with her usual confidence.

"Grrr," was all I could muster. Our teenaged son, Nico, happened to be passing by, and hoping to find a kakampi in him, I said: "Your mom is impossible. We are all going to Coron on Friday," I said.

"That’s great. That’s where they make Corona beer, right?" he said, as his face lit up. He also mistook Jose Cuervo for the patron saint of his former school, the University of Asia and the Pacific. Oh well, you know how teenagers are. Grrrrrrrrr! Really, our daily conversation at home can be very exasperating at times. I really wanted to say, "It’s Coron, you morons!" But true love always gets in the way.

So, I hyperventilated and slowly counted to 10 as I grabbed a map and showed them where Palawan is.

"Okay, class, let’s have Geography 101. Coron is an island on the northern tip of Palawan, belonging to the Calamian Group, which also includes Busuanga and Culion islands. It is also the name of the town, the second largest community in Palawan, within Busuanga Island, and is the fishing and trading center of the Calamian Group. It is called the gateway to Palawan. Clear as mud? Well, I’ve booked the three of us for a weekend getaway together with our cousins," I told them.

1.
So off we went one Friday afternoon, arriving at the two-year-old modern Eva Macapagal Terminal at the pier just behind Manila Hotel. A photo montage of the life and times of the former First Lady and mother of PGMA, after whom the terminal was named, adorns one end of the terminal.

2.
Queuing up for the canine inspection of our luggage. Security was strict at the terminal with a dog, trained to detect explosives and drugs, going through everybody’s things.

3.
A panoramic view of the Manila skyline as seen from the deck of the SuperFerry 1. The building on the left is the once-historic Manila Hotel (which has seen better days) and the blue-roofed one is the Eva Macapagal terminal.

4.
Happy hour! Having boarded early, our group of some 31 kids, big and small, took some bonding time to watch the sunset over drinks and fish balls.

5.
Varing (with pink shawl) and Atoy gamely join the singing at the club.

6.
At 5 a.m. the next morning, we arrived at Coron town after a good night’s sleep on the ferry. Above is the remnant of a barge left to rust on the pier, greeting the visitor, like a giant art installation.

7.
Breakfast at Tita Ely Narciso’s (owner of the resort) clubhouse, just some 30 minutes away from the pier, after riding several air-con vans.

8.
A typical casita at the Busuanga Island Paradise, our home during our brief stay in Coron.

9.
By 8 a.m., we were off for a whole day of fun island-hopping, starting from the wharf in Tagumpay.

10.
Less than an hour away by banca, we docked at an alcove to go on a short hike to Kayangan Lake. Crystal turquoise water, powdery white beaches, and rugged limestone cliffs typify the several islands we passed by along the way.

11.
Taking the deep plunge at the pristine Kayagnan Lake. Crystal clear and cold fresh water greet the visitor after a climb up the steps from the boat, and down again to the lake. Declared as an ancestral domain belonging to the native Tagbanua tribe, this sanctuary is maintained and cared for by the same tribe.

12.
Tagbanua kids on a banca ride.

13.
Big boy Adrian, Wacky and Annika play in the sand, oblivious to the bigger kids enjoying a picnic of native lunch.

14.
By late afternoon, we were back in Coron. Just some four kilometers from Tagumpay Wharf is the hot spring in Makinit.

15.
By sunset, we were back at our casitas. After freshening up, we had an outdoor dinner of the freshest steamed lapu-lapu and alimasag by the pool. That’s Varing, Dondon, chef Deo, little Wacky and mom Connie enjoying dinner.

16.
During our dinner, the Tribu Calamianen performed some original and traditional native songs. From left is Jun Paredes, Felix Paguia, Marvin Acoy, John Linsangan, Tony Maligaya and Al Linsangan. The group jams at the town plaza every full moon with the support of present Mayor Marjo Reyes, with the public free to listen or join in the music- making. It’s called Pagbilugon Festival, or "kabilugan ng buwan" in Tagalog.

17.
The following morning, a Sunday, we left our casitas early to attend Mass at the St. Augustine Parish Church. These little angels are members of the church choir and would go caroling from house-to-house on Easter Sunday after the mass, singing Easter songs in the vernacular.

18.
Pensive Pepe. Our national hero stands by his lonely self in front of Coron’s municipal hall. Perhaps he is wondering if his eyebrows were tattooed on too darkly.

19.
Just walking distance from the church and municipal hall is the Corong Galeri Lokals, where local tours and expeditions can be booked. Native handicrafts and artworks by local artists are also available in the gallery.

20.
Al and May Linsangan are the couple behind the Corong Galeri Lokals and the Tribu Calamianen.

21.
Off again for some beachcombing. This time, the boat took us to Sangat Beach, also an ancestral domain of the Tagbanuas. From there, we did some snorkeling around Coron Bay in search of sunken World War II Japanese ships.

22.
The author and his wifey, Mary Ann, enjoying a barbecue lunch at Sangat Beach.

23.
That’s Missy, Gabe and Finina canoeing their way around the island.

24.
By late afternoon, we were back at our casitas, all dead tired from the day’s trip, but we still had some time to take a dip in the pool. After freshening up and packing our luggage, we had a send-off dinner of more seafood back at the clubhouse. Above are some shells pretty enough to collect but nonetheless cooked in coconut milk and ginger.

By 8 p.m., we were back at the pier to take the SuperFerry back to Manila. It was the same boat we took on our way here. After dropping off passengers in Coron, it proceeded further south to Puerto Princesa. It plies the same route, leaving Manila every Friday and returning every Monday early morning.

It was a weekend filled with fun and adventure. So, remember your Philippine Geography 101. Make that Coron – the crowning glory of Palawan.
* * *
For inquiries and reservations for a Coron weekend adventure, call Busuanga Island Paradise at its Manila office, 724-3070 and 723-1943; Dindo Narciso at 0920-9500360; and through Metro Angeles Travel at (045)888-3927.

One has a number of options to get to Coron. You may fly via SEAIR, 891-8708, or Asian Spirit, 851-8888 and 0920-5848146. Both fly daily from Manila to Busuanga.

By sea, take the Aboitiz SuperFerry (528-7000); M/V Joy Ruby (243-8845); MV Catalyn-A and Asuncion 11, (243-595 to 96). All sail from Manila to Coron.

For tours and adventures in the Calamianes Group, call Al Linsangan at 0920-2546553, telefax (048)550-9219, or e-mail coronggaleri@yahoo.com.

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