Lost in amazement

Two weeks ago I was taken for a most amazing journey, into a truly unique land of enchantment, delight and 1,001 surprises, where the people were genially warm,  the culture impressively cool and the food definitely hot! It was just the break I needed from my hectic but humdrum routine — a reminder for me that life is a journey to be savored and enjoyed, like a full-course meal! I was fortunate enough to be a delegate of the Philippine team that was given an opportunity to discover a less-traveled region of Thailand known as Isan. Geographically, Isan is located on the Khorat Plateau, bordered by the Mekong River to the north and east, and by Cambodia to the south. To the west it is separated from Northern and Central Thailand by the Phetchabun mountain range. This is in line with Thai Tourism’s “Visit I-san Year 2008–2010” campaign. Called “the Cradle of Learning and Civilization” in Asia, the goal is to internationally promote Isan as a must-see destination, known for its haunting beauty, rich heritage and charm.  Indeed, I was seduced and would like to share this experience with you. In one word, I would sum up this trip as “amazing.” And I will keep repeating myself over and over again, because it truly is. The campaign is being promoted by the Ministry of Tourism and Sports of Thailand in cooperation with Thai Airways. Thanks, too, to Nivat Chantarachoti, general manager for the Philippines and Guam, Fannie Galang, account executive of Thai Airways Manila, and Dave de Jesus of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Philippine representative, for giving me this delightful adventure.

We arrived in style and comfort aboard a Thai Airways 777. I didn’t even notice that our flight took us three hours. The services and amenities were impeccable to say the least. Plush, spacious seats and surprisingly good airline food made time fly fast. The pretty Thai flight attendants were gracious and accommodating.

Upon arriving, first on our itinerary was a sumptuous dinner at the famous Royal Dragon Restaurant. Talk about grand — that’s an understatement as we were seated in a spacious hall huge enough to feed 5,000 people. It was amusing to watch Thai waiters dressed in traditional garb but serving food on roller skates and flying through zip lines. Amazing… Gives a new meaning to slow food served fast.

The next day, my inner child was roused from sleep as I enjoyed my visit to Siam Ocean World — a 2.8-million liter oceanarium which, believe it or not, is contained in the basement of a building. 

Amazing, right? We visited seven different zones, including Weird and Wonderful, Deep Reef, Living Ocean, Rainforest, Rocky Shore, Open Ocean and Sea Jellies.  Once in a while you get to see a scuba diver in a tank and you might think it’s a show, but I found out it was the aquarium’s janitor maintaining the tank. More adventurous visitors can bring their swimming gear and take a dive in the tank and converse with marine creatures — guided and supported, of course, by fully-qualified instructors. Someone even told me that a couple with a flair for adventure actually got married right in the tank. We got a chance to be part of a 25-minute virtual reality adventure at Sanyo 4D-Xventure — Thailand’s first world-class four-dimensional theater. Using state-of-the-art technology, the 4-D theater allows you to experience not only sight and sound, but also touch and movement. The “4-D Invader” seats are equipped with cheeky “tricks” that are guaranteed to squeeze a scream or a giggle out of every viewer. Wearing the special 3-D glasses gave me chills as sharks seemed to lunge towards us! I felt as giddy as a schoolchild at the time. Once again… amazing!

Not included in the official itinerary was a side trip to the gourmet supermarket where Dave de Jesus graciously obliged my trivial request to squeeze in an important bilin from my chefs to shop for galanggal, chili paste and Kaffir lime. My co-delegates didn’t seem to mind, browsing through the grocery themselves.

Right after a heavy meal at the mega shopping complex King Power, our minds were fed with glimpses of Thailand’s rich history at the Museum of Siam. Museums are oftentimes thought to be boring and dull but I found this to be quite fascinating. What’s more, it’s tourist-friendly because the exhibits and video presentations are bilingual. We were taken through Thai history from past to present, getting answers to interesting questions along the way like “Were the original cavemen from Thailand?”; “Why was the name Siam changed to Thailand?”; and “What really is the heart of Buddhism?” among others.

I thought wine-tasting tours were limited to the romantic vineyards of Napa valley or the grand wineries of Europe. Well, right here in the heart of Thailand is Granmonte Estate. It is located in the Asoke Valley is known in the beautiful yellow blossom flower that is special to the region of Khao Yai. The serene atmosphere makes a perfect setting for the vineyard.

“GranMonte” translates to big mountain. We were given the royal tour by the owners themselves, Visooth Lohithnavy, who is president of the Thai Wine Association, and his equally charming wife Sakuna. Their winery annually produces over 60,000 bottles of red and white wine. It is the couple’s dream to establish a winery that represents Thailand on an international stage. Sakuna entertained us with an elegant lunch served at Vincotto, a romantic dining place where one can dine outdoors overlooking a pond. I am glad I left room for dessert, because the cheesecake was a great ending to the full meal. I was not able to take home goodies from the gift shop, though. I heard that Sakuna sells very special fine sauces and preserves, and her red wine jelly is a must-buy. Well, there is sure to be a next time.

It’s such a stark contrast to find myself stepping out of the steel interior of my kitchen into a lush forest, home to every animal and plant one can imagine, where elephants, tigers, leopards and bears freely roam alongside man. I am referring to Khao Yai National Park, a sprawling 2,100 kilometers of wildlife with extensive flora and fauna with at least 10 natural waterfalls. No wonder it has been listed as a world heritage sight. A funny sight to behold was our strange-looking footwear. We were required to wear protective socks because tiny flat leeches were everywhere in the waterbed, a minor irritant on that virtual patch of paradise. We were also warned that, if bitten, we should not pull the leeches off since they would tear the skin as well. Leeches suck blood from human flesh and, once sated, they just slide off the skin. It’s ironic that, in the end, the one bitten by a leech was our cautious tour guide, Simon.

Day four of our journey and I was riding like a cowboy! Or relishing the days when I fancied myself a cowgirl in my tomboyish childhood years, wearing a 10-gallon hat and  cowboy boots astride my toy rocking horse. But to come across Asians actually playing cowboy was quite funny and strange. Imagine a host of non-English speaking Thai cowboys, performing rodeo tricks. This sight, among others, entertained us at Chokchai Farm which is reputed to be Thailand’s biggest beef and dairy ranch. It winningly combines its dairy, horse breeding, dog training and exotic bird operations with tourism. One can watch demonstrations of farmhands milking cows, but the time we were there, they were giving the cows a rest, because they had just gone through a milking session (and yes, in case you are wondering, only pregnant cows can express milk, so they are artificially inseminated at least once a year to keep a regular supply of dairy. Poor cows!).

Set on a sprawling 8,000-acre estate, tourists are offered camping gear to sleep overnight amid nature. A wide range of activities are available for the young and young at heart. Children can get up close and pet cuddly farm animals such as sheep and see how trained dogs steer the cattle into their pens. Visitors should also try the ice cream workshop or the outdoor cooking lessons provided by a Chokchai Steakhouse chef to help complete their camping experience.

And I honestly can say that their washrooms are the best. It is the closest to nature you can get while still retaining some privacy and style. You get to take in nature’s green with an open view of plants and trees, but are totally secluded from other “visitors” who may be using a cubicle next to you. Amazing!

I just love the feel of silk, so it was a pleasure to visit the Pak Thong Chai Thai silk village, and appreciate how hand-woven silk products with intricate ancient designs come to life. And simplicity at its best is how I felt visiting Dan Kwian Village, which is famous for its pottery. Their red clay handiworks range from the traditional to the cute and novel. The potters seem to feel at ease with their way of life, and give tourists a chance to experience the serenity that comes with simple living. They have a home-stay package, where one can immerse in the back-to-basics way of life, sans the comforts of technology. Someday, when I come back to Thailand, I will spend a few days here as a retreat of sorts.

One definite must-do at all costs in Thailand is to watch “Siam Niramit.” No words can describe this 80-minute spectacle. It is said to be one of the best shows in the world and I wholeheartedly agree. In the Guinness Book of World Records it holds claim to be the world’s biggest stage, approximately eight stories high. It is a unique showcase of Thai arts and culture with out-of-this-world special effects. But before the show, we went around browsing through a tiangge-style strip of stalls set up in the open-air theater with an assortment of delightful handicrafts. Thailand is to be lauded for keeping alive its traditional handicrafts. And I am a humble fan of their age-old intricate fruit-carving art. Just watching the locals ply their trade, unleashing their creativity with effortless precision, is an awesome sight to behold. I also enjoyed poking around the stalls that offered exotic street food. In one booth, ant eggs, locusts, and a host of crunchy deep-fried insects were all lined up for us to sample. It was very similar to the crawling edibles I have tasted in Ilocos Sur. I guess this is their equivalent of popcorn for munching at the movies. Well, maybe not. I came across an ingeniously skewered grilled chicken, which was spread-eagled. I just had to find out how it was done so I bought one, ate it and kept the sticks in the tourist bus to bring home. Unfortunately the maintenance man, while cleaning the bus, threw it away, thinking it was trash. What could he have been thinking of me, I wonder…?

And then on to the show. “Do not blink!” my seatmate advised me during the show, for each second seamlessly segued to the next. 

He was a tour operator who had watched this show 11 times already, and it still amazed him each time. In one scene, there was a shallow makeshift river where performers floated in their native rafts, and in the next, a performer took a dive into it. Huh? Into where?! I, along with every one else, gushed in amazement. Where else will you find elephants on the stage, Thai dancers dancing among the audience members, along with music that was so melodious and infectious. The musical spectacle was a very realistic, stimulating and inspiring experience. And I give the same advice to anyone who witnesses this magical show: No matter what happens, do not blink!

Beautiful Thailand. It is truly resilient. The country has had its share of blows, the most devastating being the tsunami disaster, but this is a people known for their resourcefulness and determination. They have risen from tragedy with grace and courage as a people united. And therein lies the true beauty of this nation, this land of smiles.

Entertaining over a thousand delegates from across the world is no mean feat. So I have nothing but admiration for Weerasak Lowsurat, Thai Minister of Tourism and Sports, for making it all happen. A handsome and charismatic man, if I may say so, he has certainly brought home the message that Thailand is a jewel to behold, and a wonder. In my view, he is one of Thailand’s gems for making the simple charms of his country scintillate in full radiance. The sights, sounds, colors and tastes of Thailand are truly something else. It’s a memorable experience I will relive over and over again.

(Oh, and by the way, do you know that Ronald McDonald has turned Thai already? He now greets you in Thailand for breakfast lunch and dinner. Just look at my picture for proof!)

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You may e-mail the author at info@henysison.com.

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