The third Thursday of November is a day close to the hearts of Americans situated anywhere in the world. This special day calls for a gathering of family and close friends. Carved turkeys, pumpkin pie, corn on the cob, and cranberry sauce are among the traditional dishes you will find on the dinner tables in almost every house across America. Whereas the first day of the ’ber months heralds the start of the holiday season for many Pinoys, Thanksgiving Day is the official start of the Christmas season for Americans.
Last week, my husband Benny and I were invited to experience this tradition in the home of Mr. and Mrs. Paul Jones. I had the pleasure of meeting the couple during the Fourth of July celebration at the US Embassy in Manila. Jones is the deputy chief of mission of the United States Embassy in Manila. I was personally introduced to Catherine by a protocol specialist of the American Embassy, because we both share a common and rather magnificent obsession for food.
Warm and hospitable, Catherine was the perfect hostess. A superlative chef, she cooked the special Thanksgiving dinner herself for an intimate gathering of 18. I was delighted to get together again with Ambassador Kristie Kenney, who shared with me her treasured family recipe for pecan pie at last year’s Thanksgiving. Among the guests were Starweek editor Doreen Yu, Anna Sobrepeña of Lifestyle Asia with her husband Chito, Beth Day Romulo, pianist and UST Conservatory Dean Dr. Raul Sunico, Bank of the Philippine Islands president-CEO Aurelio Montinola III, and the couple’s close friends from the US Embassy. We gathered around an elegant table setting, which was designed by the lady of the house and arranged by her ultra efficient staff.
Catherine is a fascinating person who handles everything with grace and poise. She is unconventional, too. She took charge of carving the turkey when tradition calls for the man of the house to do this honor. Before dinner started, Paul introduced the guests on the theme of their Thanksgiving dinner this year, which was Thanksgiving in Corregidor in the 1940s. I was intrigued by the unusual concept, and asked Catherine about it.
Philippine Star: What made you come up with this idea?
Catherine Jones: On my first visit to Corregidor two years ago, I found a Christmas menu from 1940 in the museum. It intrigued me, so took a photo of it and tucked away the idea to recreate it someday.
How did you research on the dishes that were served?
This Christmas menu is almost a carbon copy of a traditional American Thanksgiving feast: turkey, giblet gravy, Virginia baked ham, creamed peas, buttered carrots, Parker House rolls, pumpkin pie, hot mincemeat pie, and so on. The strawberry ice cream was the only real anomaly.
I recreated the dishes using my own recipes. I also did some research on the Internet. For instance, I discovered that German dressing for the coleslaw is a simple combination of thick cream, vinegar, salt and pepper, and snowflake potatoes which are a variety of thin-skinned white potatoes, which I basically mashed with butter and cream. The Parker House rolls took me five tries to get right. I finally found a recipe with a soft, slightly chewy texture and a buttery taste.
Of course, we can’t get Virginia baked ham in Manila, so I used Excellente from Quiapo, which is surprisingly similar in taste. Cranberry sauce, canned pumpkin pie mix, and American-style sweet pickles are all available in grocery stores here. My mom sent jars of mincemeat pie filling from the US.
Where did you study to be a chef?
I attended La Varenne in Paris after I graduated from Connecticut College with a degree in psychology. I spent a year in cooking school, then did a year of training in kitchens in Paris and Belguim. I eventually returned to the US and worked for five years under the late three-star Michelin chef Jean-Louis Palladin. I credit Jean-Louis with teaching me how to cook. When I’m working in the kitchen I can still hear his deep, raspy voice saying: “Taste the food! Respect the ingredients!”
In my late 20s, I decided to get out of the professional kitchen; five years was enough. I moved to Moscow to research my first travel-memoir-cookbook, A Year of Russian Feasts. My mother is Russian and was living in Moscow at the time with my stepfather, a former NBC News correspondent. I met my husband in Moscow, and well, the rest is history.
What made you pursue this profession?
At nine, I knew that I wanted to be a cook. I used to love being in the kitchen with my mother and grandmother, both wonderfully passionate cooks. When I told my father that I was dropping out of college to go to cooking school, he said, hand me your diploma and after that I’ll send you to France. My dream after La Varenne was to be a Michelin-starred chef, but I quickly realized how grueling a life that was, and ultimately decided to pursue the writing side of the food business.
How long have you been in the country?
Two-and-a-half years.
How do you find Filipino food?
Hmmm. Some dishes I absolutely love (sinigang and crispy pata), and others I could live without (dinuguan and halo-halo). My favorite regional food is Bicolano, because I love anything prepared with fresh coconut milk... and basically anything coconut. To be honest, I find most Filipino food quite simple. But I think this is more a consequence of economics and a lack of kitchen skills rather than a true reflection of the indigenous cuisine.
On the other hand, I’ve had some truly outstanding meals in the homes of close friends... among them a 14-course Bicolano feast where every dish was made with coconut milk; a Santo Niño lechon banquet in Cebu; and of course, lunch at Claude Tayag’s Bale Dutung in Pampanga is always a treat. One Filipino meal prepared by Jessie Sincioco was particularly unforgettable. The dishes were standards: alugbati salad, green mangoes with shrimp paste, shrimp sinigang, bistek, roasted milkfish belly, vegetable stew, suman, kutsinta, and leche flan, but Jesse raised them all to new heights with top-quality ingredients and her magic touch. I still dream about her ethereal sapin-sapin made with coconut and cassava.
Do you have any personal favorites?
Honey-coated pili nuts are my biggest weakness. I can eat a whole bag. Hot bibingka is another food I’ll make a special detour for.
If you were back home now, how would you be spending Thanksgiving dinner?
At my mother’s home in New Hampshire. This year she planned a huge reunion... over 25 people. I can see the whole scene in my mind’s eye: kids running around playing hide-and-seek, people sipping champagne and wine, and her kitchen crowded with cheerful people. I can hear the laughter, my stepfather playing Fly Me to the Moon on the piano, and the Thanksgiving toast to family far away. I can smell my mother’s turkey baking in the oven, joined by her sweet pumpkin pies. Yeah... I admit, this Thanksgiving I did feel a bit homesick, but recreating the Corregidor menu for friends made me happy.
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Coming together with family is the heart of any American Thanksgiving. But if you are oceans away from home the next best thing to do is to spend it in the company of good friends. Catherine recreates that experience with success because she gives from the heart. And what’s heartfelt will always be remembered. The charming couple sent us home with more than warm memories; they gifted us with a pumpkin loaf creatively wrapped in a buri box adorned with autumn leaves and ribbon.
Here’s a wonderful recipe from an extraordinary lady for you to try out and enjoy. And remember, in this season of giving, let’s try to give the best of ourselves as well. Cheers!
Parker House Rolls
3 tablespoons warm water (110°F)
3 tablespoons sugar
1/4 ounce, 7 grams or 2-1/2 teaspoons package active dry yeast (Note: Dr. Oetker’s from Santis works best.)
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1 cup whole milk
3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
Stir together warm water, one tablespoon sugar, and yeast in a small bowl. Let stand until foamy, about five minutes.
Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add milk and heat to lukewarm. In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture, remaining two tablespoons sugar, butter mixture, flour and salt, and mix with a wooden spoon until well combined. Add small amounts of flour until the dough forms a sticky ball.
Knead the dough on a floured surface, adding sprinkles of flour as necessary, for 10 minutes. The dough should be smooth and elastic, but still slightly sticky. Form the dough into a ball and return it to the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for one hour, or until doubled in bulk.
Butter a 3x9-inch baking pan. Divide the dough into 20 equal pieces and roll into balls. Arrange evenly in four rows of five in the pan and let rise for 45 minutes, or until almost doubled in size. Using a ruler, make deep creases down the center of each row of rolls. Let rolls rise for 15 more minutes.
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Brush the tops of the rolls with butter and bake in the middle of the oven until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes and serve warm. Makes 20 rolls.
Note:
You can make the rolls a day ahead and keep them wrapped in foil at room temperature. Reheat, covered with foil, in a preheated 375°F oven for 20 minutes.
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E-mail the author at henysison@pacific.net.ph.