The Mandarin Oriental, Manila has always been at the forefront of spectacular food festivals, and they never, ever disappoint. I’ve been witness to quite a few upon their gracious invitation and have always looked forward to it.
Two Saturdays ago, I was once again a guest to a special dinner event called Grand Diner Amical, a farewell dinner honoring the Mandarin’s executive chef Norbert Gandler, who reaped several honors for the hotel during his 12-year stay. Tucked under his toque are several titles, including bagging the championship trophy seven times in the prestigious Chefs on Parade competition. He also led the Philippine team in winning the silver medal in 1996 and 1998 at the International Salon Culinaire in Singapore. Of Austrian heritage, the Philippines has fondly become his second home. With a heavy heart, he leaves the Mandarin as he looks forward to other noble pursuits in the food frontier.
The invaluable training chef Norbert provided the hotel’s culinary team spawned several outstanding chefs as well. And as a fitting tribute, his protégés painstakingly created an incredible 10-course dinner, which was served that night. They are culinary stars in their own right, and, if this were showbiz, it was their own stirring salute to the megastar of the night, the man of the hour, Norbert Gandler, who had been their impassioned mentor.
The stellar cast of chefs includes:
Antonio Escalante, famed owner of the rustic Antonio’s garden-themed restaurant in Tagaytay. Chef Gandler took Tonyboy (as Antonio is fondly called ) under his wing and entrusted him to handle outside catering functions even when he was just a trainee. Who would have known that this former dentist would become a chef one day, and a brilliant one at that? Nevertheless, it was chef Gandler’s eye for genuine talent that helped Tonyboy rise to where he is now.
Humphrey Navarro has been under chef Gandler’s tutelage for 13 years now and their harmonious relationship resulted in the transformation of the Mandarin’s Tivoli from a restaurant offering grilled specialties to one of the premiere fine dining establishments today. Humphrey is also credited for several achievements, including nine gold and four silver medals in various categories from Chefs on Parade, among countless citations. He is presently the Mandarin’s executive sous chef.
Blessed with artistic sensitivity but balanced with business savvy as well, Ariel Manuel is behind the success of the much raved dining establishment Lolo Dad’s, which has a cult following among haute cuisine lovers – consider me one of them! He worked at the Mandarin Hotel from 1995 to 1998 under chef Gandler’s supervision, and was quickly promoted from chef de partie to sous chef.
Rounding the dream team is Kenneth Cacho, who is considered to be one of the most talented, creative, young chefs in the country. He has learned well from chef Gandler, working under his tutelage from 1995 to 2003. Kenneth is currently chef and owner of Bite Club, a fast food resto serving gourmet burgers and pasta with an attitude.
This union of four talented chefs served as a nostalgic homecoming to their second alma mater, The Tivoli, where they honed their craft to near perfection. The result of their concerted efforts was quite a moving experience, if I should say, based on the gratifying, if not restrained, glees of delights as each entrée was served.
I was seated in the esteemed company of Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation Ltd. chief executive officer Warner GN Manning and his lovely wife Julie, Mandarin assistant public relations manager Gerbie Francisco, and Mariandie Fricke.
The glorious food, not to mention the wine that was served, led to satisfying conversation about the food and wine pairing – as if I were a wine connoisseur! Without guilt, I indulged… and it would have been a downright shame not to. I am willing to suffer the consequences of an expanded waistline, but to resist the glorious food laid before us that night would have been a sin! The good Lord gifted us with the sense of taste, and I had indeed put it to good use. To me, what was most notable was the Dutch milk-fed veal tenderloin topped with goose liver chips accompanied by truffle-braised white asparagus.
The Confrerie de la Chaine des Rotisseurs, an elite organization of gourmands, has to be credited for mounting this unique culinary spectacle. Dating back to the year 1248 (imagine that!) at the court in France, spearheaded by gastronomic visionary King Saint Louis. Since then, it spread to over 120 countries. The Chaine’s noble mission is to enhance the high standards set by leading hoteliers and food establishments, as well as develop in other regional gastronomy and ubiquitous wine appreciation in the pursuit of an endless quest for excellence. Such a tall order, don’t you think, but someone’s got to do it. Its continued existence since the Middle Ages speaks of its success. In the homefront, the Chaine is under the able leadership of Fred Frank Fricke. I consider them to be culinary patriots in their mission to immortalize and elevate the culinary arts to heights of sophistication.
They indeed just bolster my belief that with good food, friendship, fraternity and equality deepen. No one can underestimate the bonding power of a shared good meal no matter what occasion and circumstance.
Till my next food adventure, bon appetit!