The who’s who of fashion royalty — those who are not above the trends, but are certainly not enslaved by the ubiquitous crop-top, overalls, or that chunky sandal with a cleated sole so strong in grip, it has managed to hang on to runway for more than one season — are known to exude style, however simple or minimal their effects may appear. Think Kate Moss, who, when not on the red carpet, mixes up her perpetual rocker chic style with a sleek statement piece, whether that’s a coat, a wide-leg trouser, or furry vest. Or the always picture-perfect Olivia Palermo, who polishes her feminine style with something tailored, like a blazer, or crisp cigarette pants. The pros always say, fashion is about contrast. Wear a frilly skirt with a frilly top and you end up looking like you are a day late for Halloween. Wear a curve-hugging dress with sexy stilettos and your bathroom selfies at your favorite club are bound to look like everyone else’s. Nothing special. Just clothes. But if you pair a menswear-inspired tuxedo shirt and delicate skirt? Suddenly, it’s fashion.
At the heart of UK-based label Joseph is this mastery of contrasts. Its late founder, Casablanca-born Joseph Ettedgui, the son of a French-Moroccan furniture retailer, came to London and became a hairdresser, but more importantly, created a boutique that brought brands like Kenzo, Azzedine Alaia and Yohji Yamamoto to the world’s attention. He discovered and nurtured new designers, and eventually, put up his own eponymous label. He established Joseph the label in the early ‘70s, envisioning a brand that would modernize women right from his King’s Road salon. Perhaps it was his inherently French eye for streamlined chicness, or his attraction to London’s nonchalant rock ‘n’ roll style, or maybe it was the marriage of both, that gave Joseph its distinct look — a sort of rough-and-tumble luxury that’s untimidating and wearable, but nevertheless still looks expensive. In the age of fast-fashion (and by that I mean, fashion that will neither stand the test of time, nor withstand more than three spins in your washer), isn’t this just what we need?
As 42-year-old Joseph enters a new phase under the creative direction of head designer of Louise Trotter, who has been dubbed the “Queen of Clean” and is among the most influential women in British fashion, Joseph opens its first stand alone boutique in Southeast Asia, at SM Aura Premier — and holds a party that everyone wanted to be invited to, featuring DJ Solange (Knowles, if you must know), who is right up there in the mononymous stratosphere of famousness as her big sis, Beyoncé. Her throwback DJ set (of The Cardigans, Britney, Whitney, Mase (!) and Mariah) was just the right mix for fans of Joseph.
The event was, of course, held at Joseph’s newly opened 150-square-meter store, where its autumn/winter ’14 collection — its comeback collection at London Fashion Week — is on showcase. One particular suede blouse in a sort of coagulated blood red caught my eye, so did a pair of nappa leather long shorts, and a deliciously soft double cashmere parka. Price range is P10,000 up, but consider this: owning a Joseph piece puts you in fashionable company. Kate Moss, Angelina Jolie, Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo, Katie Holmes, Keira Knightley and Kate Middleton are fans. Also, you’ll have a coat that you’d actually want to wear because, one, your outfit looks better with it and, two, it doesn’t make you itch like other warmers because its fabric is made of woven clouds and butter.
Like the store’s design, the clothes come in a monochromatic scheme, with a flash of blue and deep mauve here and there. Lines are clean and long, lengths are exaggerated, and everything’s at a right angle. But there are wisps of fringe and flounce, as well as a general softness to the clothes, despite their structure. In an interview with the Telegraph, Trotter said, “I don’t even think of it as minimalism really. It’s more about yin and yang, which is what I take from the origins of Joseph.” And the yin and yang of Kates (Moss and Middleton) approve. Joseph has most certainly arrived.
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Joseph is located at Level 1 of SM Aura Premier, Taguig City.