When you think of high society or New York ladies who lunch, Kristen McMenamy is not the first face that comes to mind. The ’90s supermodel epitomized androgyny, not Chanel-clad WASP-y types with a penchant for charity balls.
And yet, McMenamy is the model Nars chose for his fall 2012 campaign, which is all about the upper echelons. “We’re going for a high-society look,” says makeup artist J Lee, Nars’ training, sales, and operations manager. “You can go elegant, or you can go bold and fierce, like campaign model Kristen McMenamy.”
Lee, who has put makeup on style icon Alexa Chung and Korean star Rain, and done shows for Phillip Lim and Tasaki with Thakoon, was here to launch Nars’ fall 2012 collection, and in true Nars style, the look was strong and statement-making, though even the faint of heart can wear it, too.
The New Stylo of Eyeliner
Key products are the High Society eyeshadow trio and new Stylo eyeliners in green and violet. This new generation of quick-drying,
won’t-budge liquid liner is something to celebrate, not to fear. One misconception is that you have to have rock-steady hands to apply it. Not so: Lee showed that instead of trying to achieve one perfect stroke, which often results in imperfection you’ll have to erase, it’s okay to make many short strokes and even use eyeliner pencil as a guide.
A new eyeshadow duo, Vent Glacé, combines two shimmery shades of platinum and silver, marking fall’s transition to winter. They’re beautiful, icy shadows that you can either layer on your lids or use as a highlighter.
Multiple Tricks
I’m also obsessed with Nars’ new Multiple, Undress Me, a pretty ballerina pink with silver shimmer. Nars Multiples are mistake-proof cream-to-powder sticks designed for eyes, cheeks and lips, and Lee showed us a clever new way to apply it.
Holding a pale shade like Undress Me on top, and a darker shade like G-Spot on the bottom, you can apply it in one swipe on your cheeks and eyes and blend with your fingers to create an instant contour and eye shadow. Use the pale Multiple as a highlighter on your cheekbones, bridge of the nose, and temples. Then set with loose powder to make it stay on, and buff with a brush.
“The contrasts between pale and icy and bold and deep keep the edgy and chic signature of Nars,” Lee said.
Not Your Mom’s Eyeliner
The new Stylo eyeliner is highly pigmented and comes in true black, navy, gray, green and violet. “This is not your mom’s eyeliner — it’s really hot,” laughs Lee. She draws on a graphic line that evokes a ’60s mood, lining with pencil first as a guide. Starting at the bottom of the eyelashes and the inner corner, she layers a bunch of small strokes to create the line, extending it out at the end to create a cat’s eye. Then, with the Larger than Life white eyeliner, she lines the inner rim of the bottom lashes to fake bigger eyes. This trick also makes eyes look clearer and younger, and counteracts any redness. “Like plastic surgery, you can make any eye shape,” Lee reveals. “Just follow the lash line and extend.”
Shadow and Smoke
Using the amethyst shade of the High Society eyeshadow trio, she just taps it on the top lid, mixes in a little of the forest-green shade, and blends with a clean brush for a polished look. “Don’t hesitate to blend and extend,” she says. “It doesn’t need to be precise to look very chic.”
For a smoky eye, Lee uses Nars Black Moon eyeliner pencil as a shadow, making a half-moon shape that she blends with a clean brush, sets with loose powder in Snow and buffs.
To change the mood put Vent Glacé’s icy shadows on the lid, brushing shimmer all over the smoky eye. “This is runway to real way via the Nars way,” Lee said. Finish with mascara.
Lip Service
The red lip is in and again, there’s nothing to fear as long as you have the right tools and techniques. Lee says to use a Velvet Matte lip pencil first to shade your lip line before dabbing on Autumn Leaves, a new sheer brandy lipstick with bold sparkle. The Velvet Matte will also help your lipstick stay on longer. Lee recommends pairing this more natural lipstick with a smoky eye, as a pale lip calls attention to itself and your makeup.
To switch to an evening look there’s Rouge Tribal, a new gloss color in metallic burgundy that, like Nars lipsticks, hydrates and nourishes. Since it’s intense, though, just dot it on and spread, don’t apply all over.
Lee, whose favorite products include Nars’ Aqua Gel Hydrator and Pure Radiant tinted moisturizer, said there’s no need to be intimidated by Nars’ on-trend, cutting-edges colors. “It’s a very approachable brand. It’s different, not difficult.”
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Nars is available at Rustan’s Department Stores. The fall 2012 collection will be available in August.