Fashion from past periods was heavy on the fine points and very anal on construction. Reese, who has learned to look to history for her designs, studies how vintage garments were put together and reproduces it in her own contemporary designs. Jewel and rhinestone clusters often sewn into heavy silk and satin fabric during the ‘30s now decorate figure-hugging jersey or lighter sheer polyester. Lace, a definite vintage rehash, trims sexy shell tops and sweet knits. Boning, a must in the 19th century, is sewn into flirty tube dresses. Aside from the retro details, Reese celebrates vintage by always coming up with feminine silhouettes that enhance the female figure.
A scholar of the New York Parsons College of Design, Tracy Reese mastered the art of recreating vintage while training under French designer Martine Sitbon, when she still headed apparel company Arlequin. Each time the latter wanted to do a period-inspired collection, Reese had to do extensive research, haunting libraries, poring over books. Sitbon would then use the information Reese collected to revive the past but never to rehash it. You have to put your own stamp on the old to create something new.
This Reese kept in mind when she struck out on her own at 23. It was 1986 and the industry was booming. Though Bergdorf and Barney’s placed orders, Reese had to close down her own business due to financial constraints and sheer exhaustion. Bouncing back, she began to work for Perry Ellis at the recommendation of Parson’s buddy Marc Jacobs who was also with the company at that time. Reese was asked to design for Perry Ellis Portfolio. In 1990, she worked for Magaschoni where she had her own line. But the Magaschoni market restricted her to conservative styles, not the coquettish, whimsical, vintage designs she wanted to create. Finally in 1995, 10 years after she tried starting her own line, Tracy Reese decided to produce on her own again.
She set up shop on 37th street, gathered her old sewers and revived the Tracy Reese line. This time, the design gods were in her favor. Her colorful slip dresses and flirty frocks became runway favorites, her retro-styled coats slipped on by society’s bright young things. A business partner suggested she manufacture in India, where silk was inexpensive and abundant, and Reese supplemented her premier collection with an Indian-inspired label called Plenty by Tracy Reese.
Both Tracy Reese and Plenty fill up shelves of top department stores and specialty boutiques, including Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Ron Herman and Scoop. She is also sold at select retailers throughout Europe and Asia.
Now, Tracy creates for women who love how she combines traditional intricacy with modern technology, upbeat styles and bright colors. Her recent spring/summer collection for 2004 wows with big floral prints, rhinestone and jewel clusters, lace inlays, and ‘20s-style skimming silhouettes. Pink tones figure heavily as well as splashes of turquoise and gold. Once again, looking to the past has done Tracy Reese well.