Progressive Pearls

Let’s get one thing straight: These are not your grandmother’s pearls.

Nothing invokes propriety and politeness like the classic strand of pearls.

And while Jewelmer does have a wonderful treasure trove of classic pearl strands, this maverick pearl producer wants to show that pearls are definitely very 21st century.

Then again, Jewelmer has never been a staid predictable company. They don’t see themselves as mere pearl producers but as ambassadors of the talent, artistry and rich potential of the Philippines. But at the same time, Jewelmer has a French influence as it is a partially French company.

For the past three years, Jewelmer has mounted a fashion show to celebrate French Spring in Manila. After all, if there’s one thing that binds France and the Philippines, it’s a love for fashion. This year’s show was called The Ultimate Orient. "Orient" refers not to the geographic location but to the inner glow of the pearl, as this quality is one of the most unique characteristics of Philippine South Sea Pearls. However, the title also refers to the world- class talents who were integral elements of the show: Ballet Philippines, the Majam Jazz Band, violinist Jay Cayuca and saxophonist Ding Basbas. The featured fashion designers are also of international caliber: Ignacio Loyola, Dennis Lustico and Jojie Lloren – all veterans of international fashion competitions.

The Modern Coquette By Ignacio Loyola and Jewelmer Jeunesse

Midway through the segment of Ignacio Loyola, it hit me: Ignacio Loyola was inspired by French poodles. It was all there: the curly poufs of hair and the play on silhouettes, combining volume and sleekness. All the pieces were in colorful vibrant prints – stripes and florals reminiscent of the vinyl tablecloths in neighborhood carinderias. Ignacio called his collection "space couture" so the dresses and separates were very Jane and Judy Jetson – wide collars and voluminous skirts. Jeunesse is Jewelmer’s young line and the pearl jewelry was certainly unconventional. Ignacio designed "pearl ties" – both the four-in-hand knotted tie and the bow tie.

There was a pearl belt bag jauntily resting on a model’s hip. A particularly naughty touch was a thick dog collar studded with pearls that came complete with a leash!!! But the true showstoppers were the "pearl bubbles" – wiry globes adorned at intervals with pearls. These bubbles were worn singly, in two’s and in three’s.

When I found Ignacio at the end of the show, he said he wasn’t thinking of French poodles at all. Clowns inspired him to make the pearl bow ties and balls. He adds cheekily, "Gusto ko pa nga much bigger." The tablecloth prints were actually pillowcase fabrics that he bought by the pound. "Mura lang ‘yon," he admitted.

Ignacio is an important young talent. He can take mundane materials, and through his imagination, transforms them into creations of wit and whimsy.

The Rock Princess By Dennis Lustico and The Strands Collection

Glam, Glam, Glam," is how Dennis Lustico summed up his collection. "I focused on the waist and how to accentuate it." And in line with Dennis’ vision, the Jewelmer people came out with a true piece de resistance: A corset studded with champagne pearls. Another showstopper was a bib of cascading white round pearls. In line with his glamorous vision, Dennis showed pretty gowns with complex details. One gown was gored and then ended in an upturned little pouf. He also did ruched balloon skirts. All in all, Dennis’ collection would be perfect for a rock diva going to an awards night, or a spunky heiress on her way to the prom before she proceeds to a killer rave.

Sophisticated Lady By Jojie Lloren and Jewelmer Classic

Jojie Lloren is the designor of the moment. And even with an edited collection such as the one for this show, it is easy to see why. A deceptive simplicty marks Jojie’s designs. He himself says, "My focus is on the form. I create clothes that are simple but have intricate workmanship."

A concrete example is how Jojie does a shift dress – he makes a fichu collar that extends to the waist to give the illusion of a bolero. He makes a clean, streamlined strapless dress – of woven ribbon strands. He cuts batwing sleeves that when seen from the back look like a swingy cape.

For these bravura pieces, Jojie chose dramatic, sculptural brooches and long, long strands that instead of being worn around the neck, were draped carefully over one shoulder.

Jojie’s gift is that he tempers his artistry and creativity with a tasteful elegance, never descending into clothes that cannot be worn. That skill should ensure that his time will endure longer than a moment.

Ultimately, Ultimate Orient was not just a show but a magnificent, supreme declaration of hope.