White dominated the runways of spring/summer 2002. Here are some collections where head-to- toe white showed up. Viktor & Rolf is the perfect example. After showing an all-black collection in the past, all-white ruled this season. Every piece was matched with opaque stockings and patent leather shoes. Phoebe Philo’s debut collection for Chloé was a big success. Scallop-edged and cutout designs defined Chloé’s look. The collection also featured lace pieces, mini dresses, poet blouses, low-slung riding jodhpurs, cropped pants and baggy shorts. And Helmut Lang went back to his favorite color this season. He played on layers and textures to make the color new. At Celine, Michael Kors gave his loyal followers his usual simple and chic designs – this time, in jersey, chiffon and flower prints. The collection was romantic and flirtatious. Yards of twine, string and cord as an accent ruled Givenchy’s collection. It was used with a riding coat, cropped jackets with layered chiffon skirts, sheer tunic designs and tank dresses. Ann Demeulemeester’s take on the military look was fresh and exciting this season. Satin military tunics, officer’s trench coats, soft mesh jackets, distressed leather suits and the season’s must-have baggy pants created a modern tough chic. True to Jil Sander, designer Milan Vukmirovic showed the minimal look using luxurious fabrics. Silk shirts wrapped at the front like kimonos and paired with straight trousers gave soft silhouettes. Gucci’s opener was a white leather jacket mixed with ultra-wide trousers enough to fit three models. This defined the look of the moment – baggy pants paired with a cropped jacket. Crumpled raw silk tops with satin pajama pants and tightly laced corsets worn under long chiffon empire dresses created a softer look for evening. Chanel also showed long white chiffon dresses. White embroidered shirts, off-the-shoulder peasant blouses and intricately beaded lace designs stood out of Valentino’s collection. Ruffles showed up in most of the pieces, as well as corsets, which cinched the waist. Ralph Lauren, Max Mara, Narciso Rodriguez, Hussein Chalayan, Mui Mui, Calvin Klein, Sportsmax, Veronique Branquinho, Jean Paul Gaultier, Costume National, Etro, Comme des Garcons and Miguel Adrover also played with this clean and pure none-color.
In the local scene, something new and exciting happened last week. For three days, Manila was treated to a feast of fresh creations from the new breed of designers in the country. Paolo Raymundo’s first-ever solo show created a stir last May 1. Known for his deconstruction and play on fabrics, his collection was based on the jester. Of course, his take on the men’s white shirt made this basic mod. You wouldn’t believe how many people went crazy backstage after the show. Men were grabbing pieces like it was the end of the world! It was the turn of Mimi Sanson, Arcy Gayatin, Patrice Ramos-Diaz and Dennis Lustico to make an impact the next day. Without consulting each other, a collective trend prevailed – muted shades, sheer, flirty and romantic. All utilized light and sheer fabrics. Mimi Sanson went back to her roots and based her collection in lace, chiffon and printed cotton on Filipiniana. Arcy Gayatin also played with lace but her version was cutout antique pieces sewn together. She also made use of ribbons attached together for some of her designs. The collection of Patrice Ramos-Diaz was her best yet. Her mix of heavy and light fabrics made her designs very current. She beaded, ruched, appliqued many of her pieces in tablecloth lace, canvas, tulle, chiffon and velvet which produced depth and texture to her collection. It was ultra-feminine. Dennis Lustico also outdid himself with these four Fs in mind: flimsy, fragile, faint and formless. Well-designed pieces in cotton, tulle, nylon and pleated chiffon dominated his creations. On the last day, the much-awaited designs of Jojie Lloren did not disappoint. His strength is in the form and cut. And I saw one of the season’s must-haves and definitely a mainstay in any woman’s wardrobe – a feminine tux shirt. You don’t have to look so far to be of-the-moment. Here are the next designers who will make them for you.
Women are still shopping despite the hard times – and you can count me in! Spending has just been refocused on pieces which look great now and in the years after. What women want now are clothes which whisper elegance and not scream the brand name. Now more than ever, the fabric and the quality of the workmanship – the fit and the finish – are what women want and purchase. If you are thinking of just one item in your wardrobe to update, choose white. It’s the fairest of them all this season.