Enchanting Kalanggaman Island

CEBU, Philippines — Just over a decade or so ago, nobody would have heard of an island called Kalanggaman. Except perhaps the smalltime fishermen who’d frequently make short stopovers there to rest or to take refuge during stormy weather. Back then this small island didn’t have a hint of the popularity it enjoys today as a tourist spot. 

And yet, even as it has made its way to the tourism map of the country, Kalanggaman Island has retained much of its somewhat enchanted and mysterious character.  Even the local people of Palompon, Leyte, to whose jurisdiction the little island belongs, are rather reticent about the place despite knowing of its awesome beauty from those who’ve been there. Kalanggaman is traditionally associated with bad luck – because, often, victims of turbulent seas are washed ashore there.

Kalanggaman Island is an elongated flatland rimmed with white sands, which are surprisingly not tiny pebbles but crushed corals. It is a small island – about 750 meters long – that can be covered on foot in an hour or so, at a leisurely pace. On its eastern and western tips are sandbars that extend right into the clear blue sea. In the bright daylight, the sandbars glisten like a bed pearls!

The mere sight of Kalanggaman is already enough to take any visitor’s breath away. Just bumming on the beach – more so swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving or playing beach sports – adds to the uniquely refreshing experience on the island. And visitors may opt to simply camp out with a tent (which could be rented at Palompon or right on the island), since there isn’t much tourist accommodation available; something which only highlights the natural vibe all the more. Spending a night in a tent is a kind of adventure – to be caressed by the abundant cold sea breeze, lulled by the music of the waves and the humming of the coconut palms. 

In going to Kalanggaman Island from Cebu, visitors will have to go to Palompon via fast craft or ferries. There are also daily flights to Tacloban City, from where to proceed to Palompon. At the northern tip of Cebu, there are also boat trips available from Bogo City to Palompon.

Once in Palompon, it is advisable to coordinate with the town’s tourism office for a tour of Kalanggaman Island. The tourism office can recommend the right eco-tour according to what the visitors want. It can also arrange for boats to take visitors on an hour’s ride to the island.

Visitors seeking a more comfortable accommodation may opt to book at lodging and pension houses at either Bogo City (on the Cebu side) or Palompon (in Leyte), where to return to after a day’s tour of Kalanggaman. Meals are also less of a problem at these mainland places.  Otherwise, visitors will have to bring their own provisions for Kalanggaman.

Cell phones work on the island. There is definitely no wi-fi, but a phone signal – albeit weak – makes cell phones useful. Bringing a portable powerbank is a good idea for charging electronic devices, for those planning to stay overnight.

There’s a little store on the little island. It sells snack items and drinks, including beer… although one is lucky to get it cold. There’s not much else sold there, but it’s handy enough for some extra supplies.

It’s best to visit Kalanggaman during the dry season, as it is likely to be a time of good weather. Actually, it’s easy to come by a good day any time of the year so long as there’s no announced weather disturbance affecting the area.

The waters around Kalanggaman Island has been designated a marine sanctuary, since 2009. This is hopefully going to help preserve the rich and beautiful marine life there. And may it also help preserve the pristine condition of the island, especially now that word about it is fast getting around.