Khmer accents

CEBU, Philippines - As the dire predictions have warned, the bewitching, ancient city of Siem Reap is now facing an onslaught of development that might propel it towards unsustainability. It’s evident in the construction sites that have mushroomed all over – the bewildering, chaotic traffic that choke the main roads, and the mad crowds that throng Pub Street, pretty much the main tourist draw on any given night. 

But take heart: not all the developments in this magical archaeological digs are unwelcome or dismal. Aside from the Angkor Wat and its satellites of equally wondrous temples, there are other discoveries that await the eager wanderer.

Right now, it’s the beginning of the peak season for this Khmer wonder. But arm yourself with these useful tips when planning your much anticipated trip.  They might just make the difference:

Phum Baitang. Talk about hidden treasures! Who would have expected a rice field hacienda in the middle of nowhere, yet only 20 minutes away from the main town of Siem Reap? Hashtag: NipaHutLuxe!

Angelina Jolie pretty much monopolized this resort for a month when she shot another movie in Cambodia. And upon entry, it’s easy to realize why she chose this place to get away from the madding crowd.

There’s an instant hush when one enters, broken only by the chirps of unique bird species (there are hundreds in Siem Reap) and the croaks of froglets. A tastefully decorated lounge greets the visitor, and a long boardwalk then leads to points within the property. That boardwalk traverses authentic rice fields with scarecrows, and then to the pool and the guest nipa huts.  Needless to say, the huts can only be retrofitted to convey nothing else but modern luxury, with wi-fi and gigantic television monitors to plug you in.

What a find!  And, one does not need to stay at this US$350-500 a night property to enjoy the ambience.  Pay a visit, even for just a drink, and watch the sunset from the elevated restaurant. The bucolic mood, the chill-out music, the incandescent atmosphere… well worth it!

Kandal Village. This is a misleading denomination – there is no village, it’s just a street! But there has been excitable hype about the place, including from the New York Times, which calls it one of Siem Reaps “coolest mini-hoods”.  Indeed, this place has potential, but reality-check warning: don’t go expecting comfortable mall surroundings. The street is pot-holed and muddied, and parking is a nightmare.  So come exploring Hap Guan Street, with its twin rows of up and coming boutiques, shops and cafes, with the right frame of mind, and one shouldn’t be disappointed.

First up is Trunkh, a shabby chic, bric-a-brac kind of place.  The proprietor, Douglas Gordon, is an expat from L.A., whose idea of merchandise is whatever funny, funky idea he hits on.  There are fabrics, jewelry, vintage posters and even tin hearts that hearken to Cambodia’s marriage traditions of contributing cash gifts to separate but conjoined hearts. 

Next stop is the Little Red Fox Espresso, a coffee joint run by a gay couple, Adam and David. The hype is that they have the best coffee in town, but whether or not it’s true, the atmosphere is convivial, and the carrot cake with cream cheese sandwiched in it is evil!  There’s even a pop-up gallery upstairs!

For art, there is Constable Gallery, where contemporary and modern artists have found another abode.  I saw sculptures made of decommissioned AK-47s, lacquer masterpieces by Lim Muy Theam and military photography on offer.

Don’t miss Saarti, which specializes in candles and body products. The candles are of soywax, with ylang-ylang, fig, and lemongrass to choose from. Heavenly!  All the products are produced ethically, so the community is supported even as one satisfies one’s consumer instincts!

Sugar Palm. The Sugar Palm offers Cambodian cuisine, with native dishes tweaked just so to capture the palates of discerning travelers. Located on quiet Thapul Street, Sugar Palm occupies the second floor of a traditional wooden Khmer house.

Wooden balustrades and quietly whirling ceiling fans greet guests.  The street outside hums with the ubiquitous tuk-tuks, but one feels relaxed in the plant-enclosed sanctuary. 

We ordered the Khmer chicken salad to start with, and we fell upon it, especially after tasting that piquant bouquet of lime, peppers and cilantro that garnished the grilled chicken cooked to tender perfection.  Steamed fish came after, and while the texture was just right, the flavors might be matched by other equally competent restaurants.   Perhaps better luck can be had with the fish amok. The amok is the local Khmer specialty but worked to international acclamation by Chef Bruce Dunnet. One can choose fish, prawn or a vegetarian version in this establishment, but chicken is reportedly available elsewhere. One’s local food cravings are easily satisfied here!

Wa Gallery Concept Store. What a madcap find! Pop art lovers should make a beeline for this store, as this is the exclusive outlet for renowned Belgian-born, Bangkok-based designer Christian Develter.  Frequently featured on Wallpaper and other design publications, Develter has on offering in this brilliantly-hued gallery original paintings as well as limited edition prints.

The gallery is run by hilarious French couple Marie Claude Fabre and Frederic Escudier, and the congenial couple has actually collaborated with Develter to produce lacquer boxes, although they create their own silver and wooden jewelry line as well.  

If one were to splurge on art, then one would not make a mistake here. Develter’s pieces are eye-catching and carry the right cachet!  What a fitting end to a great temple run! (FREEMAN)