Siem Reap: Ancient Temple, Modern Worshiper

CEBU, Philippines - I am hot, sweaty and dirty. I have walked for a couple of hours on rocky trails, slippery dust paths, and rickety walkways.  There is hardly any bathroom in sight, no air-conditioned comfort around.  Yet, I love every minute of this temple run.

Yes, I am in an ancient, crumbling temple, forgotten by men, abandoned by civilization, and made uninhabitable by civil war.  The jungle has taken over, uprooting foundations and knocking down massive stones. Trees have decided to claim roofs, and priceless, intricate carvings have been washed and worn to faded smudges. This is Siem Reap, a surviving testament to Khmer culture.

Less than an hour’s flight from Bangkok, Siem Reap is a must-see, a bucket list item that deserves to be repeated, if at all possible.  While there are direct flights from Manila through budget airlines, you may not want to start on the wrong foot by having to endure crappy service.  Gateways through Singapore and Thailand are the preferred option.

The best time to go is during dry season, from November to May or June.  December is better avoided though, for it will be peak season, and one will have to contend with not just the heat, but hordes of tourists and hawkers. Visas can be obtained upon arrival for most countries, but Filipinos are lucky, as Cambodia is a sister country in the ASEAN.  No visas needed for the intrepid Pinoy traveler.

Accommodation is inexpensive, and can fit all budgets.  There are cheap hostels (even one specializing in yoga), bed and breakfasts, and resorts.  First-class hotels like Raffles, Le Meridien and Sofitel have gained an early foothold, but currently being constructed are mainstays like the Marriott.  Once sleeping arrangements have been seen to, then it’s time for the main attraction – the temples!

There are many other memorable temples aside from Ta Prohm, where enormous trees have seized hold of the ruins (immortalized in that famous Hollywood movie, “Lara Croft”), and Angkor Wat, that gigantic testament to engineering and architectural genius that dates to a thousand years ago.

Preah Khan, for example, is worth an afternoon’s visit, together with its neighbors Neak Pean and Ta Som.  Red clay and brick structures rear over the tiny visitor, harking back to ancient times and forgotten rituals.  Not many tourists put this temple on their priority list, but while it is considerably smaller, it is a much more comfortable stroll than Angkor Wat. Elephant statuaries mark all sides of the temple, and there are quiet pockets where one can spend a couple of hours meditating undisturbed.

An hour away by car (or tuk-tuk, if one is willing to brave the dust and unpaved bumpy roads) is Beng Mealea, a temple which is much older than Angkor Wat. Unlike the main temples which cost US$20.00 a day to visit, this one will only set one back by US$5.00, a dirt-cheap entrance fee.

As soon as one drives for at least ten minutes away from the center of Siem Reap, the city quickly falls away, and the still mainly-agricultural economy of this country becomes swiftly evident.  Water paddies, noisy tractors with rice and lumber (hopefully not illegally logged), and bucolic scenes flash by.  The houses are simple, two story stilted structures that by and large remain unfenced.  One will notice the giant earthen vases that accompany the basic household, a charming accent to the residence, as well as the tiny fretwork that more often than not decorate the eaves and balconies of Cambodian homes. Staircases may have colorful inlaid tiles that complement the residence.

The way is picturesque, the occasional ponds dotted with pink lotus flowers, and some of the most interesting trees I have ever seen.  No, they are not the kind with gigantic trunks, but they boast of small flowering branches and dainty foliage.  How I wish I had a botanist with me on the trip.

Upon arrival at Beng Mealea, it is time to dig into the inner Harrison Ford or Angelina Jolie.  The sprawl of tumbled down courtyards and towers lure one in, inviting to be explored.  To make it safe, wooden walkways have been fashioned over mossy walls and into dim tunnels.  These walkways traverse the fortress of stone, and allow even grandmothers to see what was already ancient before their time.

But for those who scorn the safe, there are other unguarded areas that can be accessed only by clambering over ruins and wobbly blocks.  The threat to limb and maybe life is very real, and a few years from now, I predict that the Cambodian government will clamp down and restrict entry into these more desolate corners.  Meanwhile, the temple police have a spotty record for enforcement, and one can still wander alone into isolated dead ends and quiet courtyards. Only bird song and the rustlings of hidden chameleons will mar the peace.

Inside, one can see numerous example of Khmer artistry in the carvings of people, animals and the fantastic gods. Snakeheads and garudas predominate, although it is sad to see noses, ears or even entire heads chipped off by time or attacked by weather. Trees have pushed their way into empty crevices, the relentless quest for life to establish itself.

The temple is surrounded by jungle, and it is not advisable to wander too far. Since 2003, the German government has been clearing the area of land mines, and 12 years down the road and after unearthing more than a thousand mines, its work is not yet over.  A grim reminder of war, and the tragic ripping apart of this once glorious land.

Outside the temple, village women sell wooden beads made of mahogany and fragrant wood.  Prices for bracelets and necklaces vary from US$5.00 to 25.00, not bad for authentic rural produce.  My eyes are trained, however, on a local artist who is doing sketches of the temples and buddhas. I persuade him to sell me an unfinished watercolor, as the pale, basic outline he has already rendered is more attractive to me than the garish oranges and reds that embellish his final output.  The artist is afraid to name a price for what he considers unfinished, and tells me it is up to me how much I want to pay for it. I happily pay him the normal asking price of US$ 8.00 he charges other tourists, as I do not want to bargain with an artist.

What I pay him, though, is much more reasonable compared to the prices we encounter at Theam’s House.  Theam is a respected Cambodian artist that had fled to Paris during the war and received his formal artistic training there.  After gaining renown, Theam came back to his motherland and established an art commune where his designs as well as other artisan handicrafts are showcased.  Locating Theam’s House, which is off the beaten track but still within Siem Reap, can be a challenge, but that’s what adventures are for. Tuk-tuks can be hired for US$3.00 one way, and the side trip to his gallery cum retail store is undeniably worth it.

Large frames of 4x4’s capture ordinary Cambodian faces in smooth lacquer, but these faces are so expressive and evocative of humanity that it is hard not to empathize with Theam’s citizens.  The only thing that stops me from plunking down my credit card is the thousand-dollar price tags (at least) for his memorable works.

Instead, I have to settle for strolling through Theam’s collection of wooden Buddhas artfully arranged along side corridors, wonderfully landscaped grounds with beautiful birdcages inhabited by talking mynahs, and the artisan workroom where canvasses and objects d’art are being prepared by trainees and community artists.  A soothing afternoon trip that provides a nice counterpoint to the much more physically demanding temple runs.

Finally, there is no lack of choices for dining in this small city.  I am glad to see Blue Pumpkin, a French bakery and Nest, a fine dining stalwart, still very much alive five years after I had encountered them.  Numerous new choices have sprung up, and there is simply no time to sample them all.  Even fastfood chains have made their way to Siem Reap, including Burger King (the locals don’t even know they have it yet), Coffee Bean, and KFC.  Rumors abound that Starbucks is on its way, having opened its first store at Phnom Phen just recently.

Meanwhile though, Pub Street is where one should wander to for local flavor. Aside from hosting the expected pubs, bars, and restaurants, there are also souvenir shops, massage parlors, and convenience stores.  At night, the street is blocked off to allow it to transform into one big party zone.  For souls still restless after temple visits, Pub Street offers an outlet to let loose some excess energy, or even a quiet nightcap with new friends and old.

Siem Reap is slowly bridging the gap to the 21st century, but history and culture lovers would probably wish that its journey to modernity is delayed.  Perhaps this should instead remain to be a bridge to ancient times, where modern man can worship his past. (FREEMAN)