Pimples

Dear Dr. Jen,

Does retinoid ointment really prevent or erase pimples? Is it safe to use even if I'm already under maintenance medication for the problem?

Carina

Dear Carina,

Retinoid is one of the stalwarts of acne therapy.  It has several derivatives: adapalene, tazarotene, retinol, tretinoin, etretinate, acitretin, etc.  It can function to shrink existing pimples, lessen oil secretion, and prevent new ones from appearing.  As a bonus, it even treats fine wrinkles.

However, if your current maintenance medication regimen is adequate in controlling your pimples, then there is no need to add retinoids.  Adding retinoids might cause redness, irritation and stinging if your regimen contains some salicylic or glycolic acids.

If you are not satisfied with your current maintenance meds, before you purchase your retinol, please ask your dermatologist what the components of your maintenance creams are.  For one, it may already contain a mild retinoid.  Or two, you might need to take out one or two other components in your regimen that contains exfoliating ingredients that may irritate your skin once retinoid is added.

Lastly, if you are using retinoid, sunscreen during day time is a great complement to it.  This will minimize sun sensitivity and lessen the "lobster" look from over-eager application by first time retinoid users.

Dear Dr. Jen,

I have dark patches on my arms and legs after I did a chemical peel at a spa.  Is there still hope for these dark spots to go away?  The aesthetician has asked me to do further peels but I am scared it will only worsen the dark spots.

Doris

Dear Doris,

Some salons are fond of using very strong peels (such as TCA) that may not sit well on Asian skin, no matter how fair you are.  Higher percent concentration of peels will also go deeper into the skin and will cause burns.  Sometimes, less is really more. 

It is important that the person administering the peels is really knowledgeable on the kind of peel they are using.  Some peels need to be washed off right away after a few seconds, others after a few hours, while others can stay on the skin forever.  Skin type, area for peeling and age of patient are other factors that must be taken into consideration.  The legs will need a different concentration than the underarms because skin thickness is different.

If in doubt, ask about the peels and research it before going thru the procedure.  To save you the hassle in doing all the research, it is still safer to go to a PDS dermatologist to have these procedures performed.  Your derma will likely prescribe a mild bleaching cream that will take a few weeks to take effect.  Like I mentioned, less is more at this point, but go about it slowly and surely. 

 Dr. Tan is a diplomate of Philippine Dermatological Society (PDS) and is affiliated with Perpetual Succour Hospital (PSH). For information on PDS, check http://www.pds.org.ph/. For questions or concerns, please text to: 0932 857 7070; or email to: [email protected]; or call The Freeman: (032) 2531276, or PSH: (032) 233 8620 and 232 5929. Your inquiries will be forwarded to Dr. Tan.