The Barong and the Suit

CEBU, Philippines - Dressing up for formal events shouldn't have to mean stressing up. Among the major factors in a man's being well-dressed are grooming and the proper fit of his clothes.

Most men are basically conservative in their manner of dressing, partly because the business world requires and expects it. A man should take note at how the other men dress in his business situation and act accordingly.

 It is a fact that dressing inappropriately can seriously hold back a career, not to mention the harm it can do to his social life.

 Except for a few minor changes, the Barong Tagalog, the formal men's wear in the Philippines - accepted as such all over the globe - and business suits have remained the same through the decades. Sometimes the loose trouser leg is "in" then it's "out." The lapels grow narrower then wider. The length also changes with time, but the basic attire remains. The fabrics keep basically to conservative colors, plaids, checks or pinstripes.

 The most important aspect to keep in mind when having a barong or suit made is not the style or cost, but the proper fit. Unless it is well tailored to fit your particular body, it will never look quite right. Finding a good tailor can be daunting at times, but every man should have access to one, whether he buys custom-made or carefully chooses a men's store with good tailors.

 A man's jacket must fit closely around the neck so that anywhere from half to approximately an inch of shirt collar shows in the back, depending on the style of shirt.

 In trying on a new brand of shirt, it is wise to try the shirt on and not go solely by the length of sleeve given or the neck measurement. Some shirts may shrink a little somewhat so that the sleeve length after it is washed is even with the sleeve of the jacket instead of a good half-inch below. Too much cuff showing is better than too little.

 The trousers may have cuffs or be pressed straight down, depending on preference. Length of trousers is again a matter of individual taste, but fashionably, those with cuffs should hang straight. Plain trousers should be slanted in back so they are approximately one inch longer than in the front. The trouser width should be medium. A good tailor will proportion the trouser width to the size of the shoes a man is wearing as well as to the size of his thighs and the current dictates of fashion, so that the trousers will have the right, balanced  look.

 The carefully groomed man limits his trouser pocket contents to his major credit card and keys. He should avoid using a big wallet which may make an unsightly rear bulge and may be an invitation to pickpockets who are not deterred by a button.

 The main things to remember about the barong or business suit are to keep them brushed and well pressed and to keep the buttons sewn. When wearing a suit, the inner shirt should have no creases and tie should be unspotted.

 In hot weather such as the Philippines, short-sleeved shirts are worn by some with business suits and ties. However, if the jacket is removed in the office, short sleeves do no look well at all.

 Former Tourism Attache to London, and former Undersecretary of the Department of Tourism,  Edu Jarque proudly dons the barong, his only formal wear for all seasons, through the decades,  tirelessly promoting our islands in both sides of the Atlantic Ocean. "If it's good enough for the Queen of England, while in attendance at the many protocol-enforced formal affairs at the Buckingham Palace, then it must be more than good enough for any assembly, in all venues of consequence," he declares.

 When shirts are monogrammed, the monograms should be sewn unobtrusively on the left side, hidden beneath the suit coat. A monogram should simply be there seen by others almost accidentally.

 When an invitation reads "Black Tie" it means both men and women are to come in formal dress. Black is the best color for this suit. The "black tie" bow tie should be in a fashionable width, according to what is being worn at the moment.

 Lastly, if a man wants to make sure that he is going to look right, there is a very easy insurance, he simply buys a well-fitting black dinner suit or intricately embroidered barong to be worn with crisply ironed black dress pants and polished black shoes. (FREEMAN)