Ilocos Norte Beckons

CEBU, Philippines - The “Paoay Kumakaway” tourism campaign of Ilocos Norte, launched in 2011, has attained success beyond original expectations. While before the province was only known as an art and heritage destination, it has been repackaged by consolidating the must-see places and turned it into a total destination, with offerings for all types of travelers.

This land of geniuses and heroes is located in the northwestern part of Luzon. The province has produced such names in the country’s history as Juan Luna, Gregorio Aglipay, Josefa Llanes Escoda, Artemio Ricarte etc. From much earlier times, it had also turned out the classic epic “Bi-ag ni Lam-ang,” which is undoubtedly proof of the creative ability of the early Filipinos.  

Ilocos Norte is the home province of prominent architect, urban planner and environmentalist Jun Palafox. Yet perhaps the widest known son of the place is the late President Ferdinand E. Marcos.

History buffs and lovers of old architecture have a lot of landmarks to see in Ilocos Norte. In Badoc town, the ancestral house of Juan Luna has been turned into a repository of his masterpieces and some personal memorabilia, as well as antique household items that speak of the lifestyle of its former occupants. Inside the more than 200-year-old Saint John the Baptist church, also in Badoc, is the 400-year-old image of La Virgen Milagrosa, the patron saint of the province.

The town of Bacarra has the St. Andrew The Apostle Church and Bell Tower, which was built by the Spanish Augustinian friars in the late 1500s. The Bacarra Bell Tower, with its elongated cupola, has once towered over all other bell towers in the Philippines. But in 1983, the tower was destroyed, along with the church, by a strong earthquake. The tower’s dome fell down, an event which has since gained it the romanticized title as “Dignified Domeless Belltower in Asia.”  The Church of St. Andrew the Apostle itself was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by President Ferdinand E. Marcos in 1973.

Right beside the St. Andrew Church, is the Museo de Bacarra, actually the abandoned two-storey convent. The structure bears rustic features such as tarnished bricks, bold arches and classic capiz windows reminiscent of the Spanish Baroque architecture. The museum  displays a varied collection of artifacts and priced possessions donated by locals, arranged in different sections such as livelihood and agriculture, history and politics, culture, religion and everyday living;

The popular Paoay Church, the Church of St. Augustine, is quite an attraction. Completed in 1710, the church is famous for its distinct architecture highlighted by the enormous buttresses on the sides and back of the building. Its structure is a prime example of Earthquake Baroque architecture, which is the Philippine version of the European Baroque adapted to the seismic condition of the country. Aside from Baroque, the church facade also exudes Javanese architecture reminiscent of Borobudur of Java. In 1993, UNESCO declared it as a World Heritage Site, being one of the best examples of the Baroque Churches of the Philippines.

And, of course, a peek into the early life of one of the country’s most celebrated presidents is a major attraction. In Sarrat town there’s the “Bahay na Bato,” the birthplace of President Marcos that has now been turned into a museum featuring great Ilocano women and mothering traditions. The town of Batac has Malacañan ti Amianan (Malacañang of the North), an imposing structure overlooking the legendary Paoay Lake. Built in 1976 and having served as official residence of the Marcos Family in Ilocos Norte, it is now a museum featuring various feats of the Marcos’ presidency. There’s also the Ferdinand E. Marcos Presidential Center, the ancestral house of the Marcoses in Batac, showcasing how the late Pres. Marcos was as a leader and where  his remains lie in a mausoleum.

For adventure seekers, the outdoors of Ilocos Norte is ideal for both extreme and relaxing escapades. It offers a diversity of adventure that suits personal choices and moods – from going fishing to bird-watching to just basking in the serenity of the Paoay Lake. Or one may opt to go trekking or horseback riding to the Kapurpurawan Rock formation on the rocky coast of Burgos. Or go swimming, snorkeling and scuba diving at Saud Beach, or take a dip at the Kaibigan Falls.

Among the more adventurous type, the 52-square mile Paoay Sand Dunes is fast gaining popularity. A package inclusive of a 4x4 Rough Riding vehicle with a trained driver cum guide is available to take visitors around the sand dunes, complete with thrilling drops on steep sand ridges that will have everyone screaming in fun. The sand ridges go as high as 10 to 20 feet, while the most thrilling ride is the “rollercoaster” part, through a series of sand hills. Part of the package is sightseeing, photo session and the equally exciting sand boarding where visitors slide over sand folds – on a board, very much like in skateboarding. This exhilarating Paoay Sand Dunes adventure is best taken early morning to welcome the sunrise or late afternoon to witness the glorious Paoay sunset.

Still more places and adventures beckon. But in between attractions, there’s the need for rest and for eats. In Ilocos Norte, food is never an issue. Ilocos is a giant melting pot of great food, with traditional as well as nouvelle native cuisine. In addition to the more popular Ilocano fare – bagnet (deep-fried pork belly), orange-colored empanadas,  longganisas overloaded with garlic,  and pinakbet with bagoong or bagnet, eating places in Ilocos Norte serve unique dishes from ingredients, mostly veggies, that are abundant in the area.

The Plaza del Norte Hotel and Convention Center offers yummy and spicy shrimps with okra, and a pork menudo-like dish with fried saba (banana) on the side. Johnny Moon Cafe, a fusion restaurant serving traditional Ilocano favorites in western flair, has Crispy Dinuguan with Ensalada, Bagnet sandwich and Bagnet empanada. Over at Saramsam Restaurant, there’s the  Ilocano twist to the Italian pizza – like Dinardaraan, pizza with crispy dinuguan as topping, and vegetarian pizza topped with the usual veggies in pinakbet. Other favorites are their poque-poque – eggplant salad served with cabbage and pesto dip; and pasta with vegetables, ripe mango and shrimps seasoned with chili oil and bagoong sauce; and their signature drink, Salamagui (tamarind juice).

The “Paoay Kumakaway” campaign also pushes Ilocos Norte as a wedding destination. Says Gov. Imee R. Marcos, “We might just be the best destination for your dream wedding with our long list of options.” From  historic churches, heritage houses, to scenic beaches, pre-Spanish ethnic communities to age old recipes and traditional fabrics – Ilocos Norte has got it all covered.

Cebu Pacific has daily flights from Manila to Laoag.