A Chinese banquet at the Tea of Spring
When I write about Chinese food, I always recall two very influential authors who have greatly expanded my knowledge about the subject. One was a columnist of the Philippine Star, Preciosa Soliven who wrote an article "The Restaurant Experience from the '50s to the Present". Eating out during the post war years means a serving of simple Chinese dishes like "Pancit Canton, Sweet and Sour Pork (or fish) and Fried Rice at Panciteria Wa Nam in Calle Raon at Quiapo". Favorite destination for snacks (siopao and mami) was Ma Mon Luk restaurant. And in 1957, when she was married to Max Soliven, they flew to Hong Kong for a taste of the real Chinese dining experience.
My favorite author, Doreen Fernandez (SARAP Essays on Philippine Food) who grew up in Silay had one destination for Comida China; Leong's in Bacolod City. They dined on Chinese food with Spanish names like Aletas de Tiburon, Morisqueta Tostada, Agrio Dulce, Pinsec Frito and Camaron Rebosado Dorado con Jamon. We now know these dishes as Shark Fin Soup, Fried Rice, Sweet and Sour, Fried Wonton and Fried Shrimp Toast (shrimp meat, Chinese ham or strip of pork fat on a piece of bread, then deep fried). It was her travels to "Hong Kong, Taipeh and China" where she learned "more and more about Chinese food".
Your favorite food columnist went through the same dining experience: Pancit, Sweet & Sour, Shark Fin or Nido Soup and Camaron Rebosado at the Majestic Restaurant (Colon St.), siopao & mami in Ma Mon Luk and Ampalaya con Carne in a restaurant in Cubao. I was fascinated with this dish because the bitter melon had a very bright green color and the beef cuts were so tender (parboiling with a pinch of baking soda for 3-5 seconds, then wash with cold running water to stop the cooking process, does the trick)
It took a trip to Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and China for a taste of the diversity of Chinese food and this inspired me to recreate the dishes that were not served then here in Cebu. More Chinese cookbooks to read and more dishes to replicate and this was my way of studying this fascinating aspect of Chinese culture.
These days, the diners no longer go beyond Cebu for a taste of authentic Chinese cuisine. Chinese Chefs are now practicing their arts in Cebu and the Tea of Spring (Shangri-La's Mactan Resort & Spa) is definitely your destination for a delicious Chinese Banquet.
Lunch was served and I joined fellow media colleagues for a taste of these wonderful dishes as shown here. Nearly everybody came to the agreement that two dishes were indeed their favorites: Crispy Aromatic Duck served with Sour Plum Sauce and the Deep Fried Prawns with Mango Salad. No air plane tickets to buy, no travel taxes to pay, no time wasted in checking in at airports and yet, what you eat in the better restaurants in Beijing, Shanghai, Xiamen or Hong Kong are now available right here in Cebu. Isn't that wonderful? [email protected]
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