CEBU, Philippines - This season saw Style Origins vis-a-vis Mensweek at the Activity Area of Ayala Center Cebu. The former, an all female show with retail labels available in the mall; the latter, an all men (obviously) show with retial as well as designer labels. On spotlight here are featured designers Arcy Gayatin, Yvonne Quisumbing, Cary Santiago and Philip Rodriguez.
The news at Arcy Gayatin this season is materials. Forget the fact that Arcy Gayatin doesn't do menswear coz actually she does and what a superb collection it was. Gayatin's always a fashion mover and she loves a bit of fun, but of late she's been addressing herself to the serious business of elevating the feel of her menswear, and this time, it was her own fab fabricated fabrics that gave the collection its punch. Take, for instance, the de-grained shirts in asymmetric patterns, in keeping with the inspiration of non conformist slickness. Elsewhere, de-grained coats and long sleeved tops with tweeds echoed the theme. Her tweed trousers are going to fly from her display rack as everyone who attended (gay or straight) eyed them with gusto; likewise for the striped and stripped long sleeved shirts. She obviously has a knack for making basic pieces that feel and look special-or, if you prefer, special pieces that can be worn like basics.
To create the hand-block print and hand-painted details on gray stretch chiffon meant to channel the Oriental deities, the Cary Santiago team enlisted artisans from abroad. Nobody said ethical fashion was easy, but that's a lot of groundwork for a hooded shirt or button down top. For this latest season, Santiago's mission to stabilize regions by employing local craftspeople got in the way of its design message. Resort emphasis on simple, unconstructed silhouettes helped give focus to the label's new offerings.
Philip Rodriguez' latest offering has a reputation for laid-back classic cool. For Resort inspiration, the designer looked to the French Riviera and (here's the surprise) high society. He stuck with his classic silhouettes-button-down shirts, slouchy pants, and shorts, updating them in refreshing shades of sand and chevron yellow. Checks and a canvas jacket here and there, with lots of flowing scarves completed that look and a blush-tone tailored shorts suit paired with leather sandals were the obvious winners here.
Bravissimo! (FREEMAN)