Alejandro Godinez for Salvador Malto I: Celebrating 25 Years

CEBU, Philippines - To say that designer Alejandro Godinez sent out a surprisingly ladylike collection for the 25th anniversary of the House of Salvador Malto I would be the understatement of the season. His nipped-waist lycra blend jersey dresses, vertically-blocked pencil skirts, and natty tops in lycra/jersey were so ultra-moderne, it had to be some kind of provocation. Surely, there had to be something weird at work to inspire these clothes.

Of course, there was. As Hadji (as he is fondly called) explained after the show, the genesis of this collection was his discovery of a trove of futuristic blended fabrics at the shop celebrating 25 years in the fashion industry. Also, he unearthed a lot of stretch chiffons, and used several of these fabrics in the show. Clearly he also developed laser edged technique for his collection based on those fabrics, re-creating everything from their stitching to the way they stretch in different directions as passed on to him by his mentor, the late artist Salvador Malto I. Even from the front row, it was hard to see the difference between the old and the new, especially given that Godinez turned out both materials in looks that were almost identically patterned, and identically unembellished.

Sometimes there was a bit too much skin going on; a few of the pieces utilizing fabrics were so fitted it looked like it was molded into every lithe models’ body. That may have been his intention as his mentor would’ve done it. But other pieces, like color-blocked black and canary yellow pencil dresses in more stretchy fabrics, had a timeless simplicity. And still others exuded the designer’s trademark: A yellow maillot dress with attached chiffon overlays looked like an all glam gown, except when the layers are blown and showed exposed thighs. Meanwhile, the sportiness was self-evident in Godinez’ stripped garters producing a dive suit like effect. Another vantage point worthy of note were the perfect harmony of electrifying hues that represent Godinez’ exquisite collaboration with his mentor, Malto, who lived life to the fullest. Bravissimo! (FREEMAN)