Chaine Des Rotisseurs' 40th anniversary

It all began in 1972 which was considered a year of living dangerously in the Philippines because of the proclamation of martial law. Despite the anxieties of the time, an adventurous group of men and women managed to establish the Philippine branch or the Baillage de Manille of the La Chaine des Rotisseurs, an international society dedicated to promote fine dining and preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table.

Fast forward to 2012, it was time to celebrate the 40th year of this gourmet society (www. chainedesrotisseursphilippines.com) with a Grand Diner Amical, held at the Harbor Garden Tent of Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila with the Philippine Opera Company providing scenes of Philippine history in song and dance.

Your favorite food columnist and his wife travelled to Manila to participate in this historic ruby celebration and at 5:00 pm moved from Quezon City to Manila Bay; unfortunately traffic was terrible and we finally arrived, whew, at 7:15pm. Later I learned that it took two hours for some guest to commute from Makati to Manila.

Dinner began at 9:00 and the Amuse Bouche was the Island’s Best Catch, made from Carpaccio from Marinated King Prawns, Beluga caviar, “Tinapa” Pate and Glazed Green Mango Mille Feuille and Lapu-Lapu Kilawin on Fresh Cucumber paired with Lhuillier Brut Champagne. Who would ever believe that tinapa and kilawin would ever make it to haute cuisine?

Second dish was the Trio of Foie Gras: Foie Gras Truffles on Ice Wine Jelly, Seared Foie Gras, Balsamico-Orange and Foie Gras Terrine served with Domaine Huet le Mont Demi Sec 2003. This was a triple delight of gourmet item, fatty goose liver beautiful paired with a wine with an acidity that softens the very rich umami taste.

Soup was Tagaytay’s Pumpkin soup with Champagne, Crème Fraiche and Citron Oil, Escargot Phyllo Stick and Baked Oyster. This was followed by a Sorbet…Mango Sorbet with “Lambanog” and Slivered Almonds Tuille. Mango and lambanog joined hands in providing a palate cleanser and this was the first time I tasted such a combination. And this is the reason why dishes served in many La Chaine celebrations make it to this column and why I have joined this organization for the past 18 years.

Main dish was the Slow Roasted US Beef Tenderloin topped with spicy shallots and shaved Truffle, Morel Jus, Spargel and Cherry Tomato Confit paired with Corte Riva Merlot 2007. Take a close look at the photo and you can see the real black truffle shavings, one of the most expensive mushrooms on earth that provides a musty and sweet taste to meat and the wonderful taste of the beef is further enhanced and intensified. The aromas and flavors of blackberries and black cherries of the Merlot were a perfect accompaniment to the earthy taste of the beef with truffles.

 A Cheese Course is usually served in many formal French dinners and this time we had the Warm Camembert with grapes in White Wine and Sesame Twist.

Like all great stories, there has to be a beautiful ending and what greater end to a wonderful dinner but an extra fine Dessert, the Chocolate-Nougat Mousse Box, Covered in Dark cocoa, Crème Anglaise, Strawberry and Tapioca Pearl. Then finally, the Petit Fours, Homemade Chocolate Pralines infused with Local flavours.

Congratulation to the Officers and members of the Baillage de Manille led by Bailli Federico “Freddie” S. Borromeo and the management and staff of Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila for the best dinner that night in the Philippines! It is my fervent desire to join, God willing, the Golden Anniversary of this prestigious organization.

 Vive La Chaine!