A Well-Realized Dinner in Three Shagadelic Acts

CEBU, Philippines - When an event leaves an exceptionally rare and indelible impression, one is compelled, for better or for worse, to immortalize it in writing.  Indeed, one of the more memorable events of 2011 is the fellowship dinner of the Confrerie de la Chaine des Rotisseurs at the Cebu City Marriott Hotel. 

A dinner you say. What can one possibly be excited over a meal? For starters, it’s fusion. Yes, that “F” word – the in thing, the fad – that has been much abused as it is synonymous with the bastardization of national cuisines by lesser chefs. But wait! . . . this dinner not only appears to be fusion, it IS fusion at its finest.

ACT I. The setting is the psychedelic 60s, the era of rock ‘n roll and the beatniks, of sexual experimentation and LSD. The ballroom undergoes a creative transformation of intense, vivid colors and swirling abstract patterns, aiding one’s hallucinations and expanding a stream of collective consciousness.

The 60s backdrop has a story line too: that of Austin Powers, international man of mystery. At the side of the ballroom, a large projection screen is showing the 1960’s British secret agent who is cryogenically frozen and released in the 1990’s. He teems up with sexy sidekick Vanessa Kensington to stop arch-enemy Dr. Evil, who was also frozen in the past. Dr. Evil wakes up somewhere in Nevada, steals a nuclear weapon and holds the world hostage for (when he realises it’s the 90’s) 100 billion dollars. Can Austin stop this madman? Or will he get caught up with Evil’s henchmen, with names like Alotta Fagina and Random Task? Only time can tell!

A brigade of servers enter in unison posthaste, bearing the creations of Executive Chef Brendan Mahoney. First stop is Amuse-Shrimp Baby!! Yeah!!, a clever wordplay on amuse-bouche: Farmed Shrimp Gaspacho, Chorizo Dressing, Sea Grapes, Calamari Pasta. Slightly spicy, but quite refreshing really. No doubt the catch-of-the-day freshness sealed the deal (pun intended).

As if the first dish wasn’t enough, Foxy Cleopatra “A whole lot of Lapu Lapu with Lazer Beams” makes her entrance, wetting our appetites even more. Lapu Lapu Poisson Cru, Hearts of Palm, Avocado Ice Cream. An innovative twist on the Cebuano kinilaw with a complex coalescense of flavors. Cold but extremely pleasant. At almost US$100 a plate, this course alone is worth the dinner assessment. It is the reason that one goes to a fine-dining dinner where you tell the chef, “Surprise me.” Boy, was I delightlfully surprised!

Dr. Evil’s right-hand man gains access to the command post as No. 2’s Lobster Course. Philippine Rock Lobster, Mascarpone Cream, Pomelo Sabayon, Slow Roast Bicol Vine Ripe Tomato. Again a simple dish with complex flavors. An excellent fusion of East and West. Definitely a must-try!

A supporting character throughout the first act is Sylvain Fessy, Montagny, 2006, 1st Cru from Burgundy, France. The bouquet has hints of oak and fruit. On the palate, it has a light to medium body, slight acidity yet a bit fruity. It is well-balanced overall, the least that one can expect from a first cru wine, though surprising for a Sylvain Fessy, a label known for entry-level wines.

ACT II. On the big screen, Dr. Evil is back! . . . and has invented a new time machine that allows him to go back to 1969 and steal Austin Powers’ mojo, leaving Austin “shagless”. Two years after he defeated his nemesis Dr. Evil from detonating a nuclear bomb in the earth’s core, the sexually-wounded swinger must travel back in time and, with the help of CIA spy Felicity Shagwell, recover his vitality. Meanwhile, Dr. Evil’s personal life runs amok as he develops a close relationship with himself. Well, actually, with a clone 1/8 his size whom he dubs Mini-Me. Evil plans to construct a ginormous laser gun on the moon and beam it towards the earth. Using a time portal of British intelligence, Austin and Felicity must not only recover Austin’s mojo, they must also stop another Evil plot to take over the world. Can Powers defeat Evil again?

Fat Guy–“I Want My Pork Belly Back!!!” infiltrates HQ and lands firmly on the dining tables. Moscavado Soy Glazed Pork Belly, Beef Tapa, Orange Syrup, Curried Lentils, a cross between the Pinoy lechon kawali and the Tsinoy hông bà. The lentils are neither overcooked nor mushy; its al dente texture complements the tenderness of the pork. A tad sweet for my palate. I would’ve wanted to taste a wee bit more of the curry. An impressive effort nonetheless.

In comes Austin’s “Smack Bottom” Soup Course. Pumpkin Veloute, Annato Pearls, Duck Confit Pie. As a duck-lover, I am partial to the traditional duck confit where one can devour visibly large pieces of meat. Austin’s “Smack Bottom”, however, provides an interesting perspective to this classic French dish. It is muy rica! – rich and loaded with, well . . . pumpkin plus annato plus duck equals LDL! Time for an executive panel.

As the second act draws to a close, Dr. Evil’s alter ego creeps into the base in the form of Mini Me’s Mini Terrine. Mango and Champagne Terrine. It is no great shakes as a palette cleanser. Comme ci, comme ça. Though it is consistent with the fusion motif.

Cuvee La Baronniere, 2007, Côtes du Rhône, France is the libation for Act II. The bouquet has a certain unpleasantness about it. The first sip though is actually not half bad. After airing over time, it is dry and flat on the palate, almost corky. A better choice would have been the Laurus Rasteau Côtes du Rhône Villages 2006 (available at Darras and Bowler), which I have had the occasion to taste in another dinner of the Chaine des Rotisseurs in 2010 and have since been using as my house wine.

ACT III. On screen, the plot thickens. Austin Powers has found his mojo, baby, and now he’s back in another shagadelic adventure! Dr. Evil and Mini-Me escape from a maximum-security prison. Joining forces with the superfreaky Goldmember, they kidnap Austin’s father, English master spy Nigel Powers, in a dastardly time-travel scheme to take over the world. Before you can say “Shake Your Booty,” Austin cruises to 1975 to reconnect with an old girlfriend, detective Foxxy Cleopatra, and requests her help to track the villains and save his father. Together, they stop Dr. Evil and Goldmember from their mischievous mayhem.

In celebration of Austin’s final victory, the guests are given treats of Shagadelic Shortribs. Natural Root Beer Braised Black Angus U.S. Short Ribs, Glazed Fennel, Vanilla Potato Sauce, Sweet Potato Croquette, Toasted Barley. For a Chaine dinner with over a hundred guests, this steak was surprisingly hot when served, an achievement in and of itself. Hats off to Chef Mahoney and his kitchen crew for succeeding where others had failed. The Black Angus short rib is tender and tasty. The root beer, the glaced fennel and the sweetness of vanilla balance the salty flavor of the beef. The sweet potato and toasted barley are a good idea. Not too much carbs. Not too heavy on the tummy. The sweet potato croquette is superb: crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside.

The steak is paired with Tatachilla, Cabernet Shiraz, 2006 from McLaren Vale, South Australia. Deep red with purple hues. Pleasant bouquet of berries and spice. Dry with a light body, soft tannins, moderate acidity, long finish. Easy on the palate. Definitely much better than the Côtes du Rhône. A good match for the beef.

After his defeat by Austin Powers, the beaten and depressed villain sneaks into our sanctuary as Dr. Evil’s British Cheese Course, only to be devoured by hungry guests. Port Soaked Onion Tart Tartin, Stilton Cheese, Roast Pepper Custard paired with Offley Tawny Port. I’m not a fan of smelly cheeses, but this course is tempting and simply hard to pass. The port-soaked onion tart tartin is not too sweet. The custard contains a mixture of roast pepper and cheese. Evilicious!

The key to fusion cuisine is simplicity. When there are too many elements in one dish, one begins to question what the chef is trying to conceal. In fusion cuisine, it is perfectly acceptable to include a few flavors in a single dish, so long as there is harmony and the result is one distinct savor. Like musical notes in a symphony, they must rise to a crescendo and end with a single theme. Like subtexts that layer works of fiction, they must tell a single story. In this endeavor, Chef Mahoney pulls it off with flair.

All told, my two cents worth is that this is one of the most memorable events of 2011. The set decoration was garish as the 60s was psychedelic. Not too ostentatious. Unpretentious even. Yet it allowed the guests to travel back in time and vicariously accompany Austin Powers in his adventures. It was just right.

Before the evening was over, one can tell that careful attention and most of the budget had been placed on the bill of fare, as it should be. After all, the art of the table is about just that: fine food, fine wine and the fine art of conversation. No more, no less. In the words of Ted Allen (Top Chef), “It was beautiful, it was elegant, it was very well-realized.” Shagadelic, Baby!! Yeah!!