An affair to remember

The Chaine des Rotisseurs, an international gastronomic society celebrated its 18th Anniversary and Christmas Ball with a theme "The Clockwork Princess… An Illuminating Christmas Journey Program" at the Marco Polo Plaza Cebu (www.marcopolohotels.com, phone 253-1111) last December 6, 2011.

Members of a gourmet society expect something different about the food and wines served during the Christmas party, something beyond the usual preparations of other organizations. Years before, the former head of the Philippine chapter had instructions that the host prepare a "roast" since the Chaîne is based on the traditions and practices of the goose roasters. Roast poultry may be special in other countries but in the Philippines, it is found in street corners.

The management of Marco Polo Plaza Cebu, headed by General Manager Hans Hauri and Executive Chef Luke Gagnon, made preparations during the last 6 months to eagerly and delightfully accept the challenge from this group of food experts. And investment in new technology in the kitchen can carry a stiff price.

To welcome the members and guest was the appetizer, Smoked Duck Carpaccio, Foie Gras Ice Cream and Yoghurt Biscuit with Dalandan Foam, Walnut Puree and Guinness Foam paired with Domaine des Trois Fontaines, Blanquette de Limoux, France.

To make an ice cream made with goose liver involves the principle of molecular and physical gastronomy. Scientists and professional chefs joint hands to study the science behind traditional cooking methods. When you eat it, there is surprise, confusion then astonishment. "It registers flavours in the tongue in distinct sequence; first shock, disorientation and comforting reassurance" (Anthony Bourdain). This taste sensation is also true with many of the dishes served that night.

The soup was delicious… Pumpkin Broth, Shallot Flan and Citrus Puree with Chicken Rillette, Stuffed Pumpkin Flowers and Pumpkin Seed Rocks. This was followed by the Sweetbread, Lobster and Sea Bass Dry Shot with Black Mission Figs, Amaretto Jelly, Cocoa Butter Foam and Burnt Onion Puree, paired by the Michel J. Lhuillier, Chardonnay, France, 2010. So many strange yet wonderful new things to try!

The sorbet was then served: Apple Martini, "Shaken Not Stirred". What made this preparation different was the small plastic dispenser squirting out liquids to the martini. Very nice!

Main dish was the Lemon Gremolata, Crusted Veal Tenderloin with Crispy Scampi, Spinach Brûlée, Cassis Reduction and Saffron & Vanilla Savory Granola. To make a gremolata, you need to mince parsley, garlic and lemon zest and the granola was made from 8 different cereals flavored with saffron and vanilla.

The veal was very tender and moist, perfectly paired with the accompanying drink, the Cellier Des Princess, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France, 2008.

A cheese plate is usually during a French dinner and again we had something different, nearly magical, but definitely delicious, the Goat's Cheese and Savory Rhubarb Crumble and Port Jelly with Hazelnut Cream and Pistachio Fluid.

The dessert looks like an orange cut crosswise in a bowl of liquid but it is not an orange. It is dessert dish called "An Orange Symphony" and it is a bit expensive to prepare because the Pastry Chef Ryan Zimmer, excuse me, had to fly in from Marco Polo Hong Kong. How I wish I can share this outstanding dessert to all my beloved readers. The Friandise then made its appearance… Caramel Space Cake, Espresso Caviar, Caramel Lipstick, Liquid Nitro Marshmallow and Whipped Strawberry Whisk. Wow!

Many of these dishes were inspired by El Bulli restaurant led by Chef Ferran Adrià, one of the greatest chefs of this century and now, Marco Polo Plaza Cebu has a kitchen that boldly goes where no kitchen has gone before.