Going full blast

CEBU, Philippines -Showing in his new showroom space  an atmospheric cum eclectic downtown atelier  Edwin Ao's collection was an exercise in subtlety. He who once was under the wing of another enfant terrible Jun Escario, went solo and going full blast. His recent collection, for the much ballyhooed fashion gala Face Off at the cavernous Pacific Ballroom of Waterfront Cebu City Hotel  on both men and women reflected a mood gently suggested by his inner voice, stiff and structural collars on coats and blouses, and architectural far-from-body-hugging frock coats in felted wools.

Confined to an exquisite palette of gunmetal ink, dulled silver, tobacco and black, the multi-awarded and well traveled thirtysomething artist made his message of continuity, revisiting his trademark pieces. The sheath dress with a draped wrap in back, or pelican cowl in front, was reconsidered in glazed ultralight felt wool. His signature mohair wool mix appeared as over-scaled coats over side-swagged skirts, or as slim evening dresses dusted with ribbon thread – or even as chunky but never cumbersome footwear worn by enduringly beautiful supermodel Ria Bolivar. Ao's dark wool hand-knit overcoats with matching pants shaped differently was also the most contemporary take on the early 80s Yohji Yamamoto redux that has proved a collection's keynote – a subtle homage to another designer who believed in evolutionary fashion. (FREEMAN)