Marooned with Mother Nature in Danjugan

CEBU, Philippines - Being marooned in an isolated island could bring one to the brink of insanity, although some may consider it bliss.

Imagine being free from the noise of passing traffic or the irritating smell of vehicle smoke in the early morning hours or burning barbecue in the evening. And yes, no bad news on what’s the latest on the botched government operation, updates of which seems to go on forever.

But I reckon that most would imagine it to be a nightmare – unable to update one’s status or check out the latest gossip on Twitter or Facebook, no cellphones, no artificial light in the evening, and lots of mosquitoes and weird sounds at night. The thought of it can indeed be maddening.

Luckily, Danjugan Island is not totally isolated from civilization. But I didn’t say it’s not as I described above.

Located three kilometers off the coast of Baranggay Bulata in Cauayan, Negros Occidental, Danjugan Island is a conservation site owned and managed by the Philippine Reef and Rainforest Conservation, Inc (www.prrcf.org).

The sub-tropical rainforest that lushly covers the karst terrain of the 43-hectare island is home to a number of rare species of flora and fauna including screw pines, wild Manila palms, Philippine Bantigue (a favorite among bonsai lovers), white-breasted sea eagles, Tabon scrub fowls, coconut crabs, hawksbill turtles, green turtles, giant clams and around nine different species of bats.

There have also been sightings of Dugongs, whale sharks and manta rays in the surrounding waters.

Imagine my excitement at the prospect of being stranded in this island paradise when my sister announced that our friends, Rhoda Avanzado and Vincent Lumbab, both of whom used to work in the island, decided to visit their associates in the island’s surrounding villages before Rhoda leaves for London, where she is now based.

We left Dumaguete City around 9 in the morning of Tuesday, September 7, passing by Kabankalan City for breakfast and to buy some fruits in the local market. The three-hour drive brought us to Baranggay Bulata in Cauayan town at around lunchtime. The island is just a 30-minute ride from the mainland onboard an outrigger boat.

We arrived at the Danjugan Island Learning Center in the island’s third lagoon around 2 PM. The center is funded by the German government through the German Federal Ministry for Environment, Natural Conservation, and Nuclear Safety (BMU).

The facility is barely new with around five eco-cabanas, an open multipurpose hall, and an enclosed hall.

As what the island’s website cautioned, “Facilities…are ‘native’, rustic and basic.” On this note, one would not expect a queen-sized bed with large pillows and an airconditioned room.

The accommodation is very humble, with mattresses set up on the floor and individual insect nets to protect guests from the pesky pests. Airconditioning is definitely not an option since electricity in the island is provided by solar panels, the power generated from which is just enough to light up the camp.

Another resource that is hard to come across in the island is clean fresh water. In fact, for the shower, the staff have to bring fresh water in from the mainland and then store it in large tanks. This is done everyday, as long as there are guests in the island, since the supply stored is just enough for a day’s stay.

When it comes to connectivity, the island has mobile phone signals for all three networks. So, if you have a plug-it you can use it in select areas. Charging of batteries, however, has to be done in the mainland.

Meals are cooked using the freshest produce available and I heard that vegetarian food is available upon request. What you would expect for the most part are fish dishes with the freshest, juiciest, and sweetest fish that you’ve ever tasted.

The fishes are, however, not caught within the facility or anywhere inside the sanctuary as the management of the island are very strict in implementing the “No Fishing” policy within the sanctuary. This allows you to enjoy seeing large school of fishes swimming near the shore and around the common space that also serves as the dining area.

After taking our breath and settling in on the island, we decided to trek the trail into the forest and to the other side of the island where the main camp is. The trail would take one to the bat cave with its stinky yet amazing inhabitants.

A word of caution though – loud noises are not allowed at the mouth of the cave, else you risk the ire of sleepless bats. But then again, you need not worry if these bats would start flying around you since they are in a diet of either fruits or insects. No blood sucking bats, here.

The island has seven habitat types that include limestone, beach, mangrove forests, caves, seagrass beds, coral reefs, and the open sea. The virginal state of these habitats is the reason why wildlife is abundant here. This is the treasure of Danjugan, and is the reason why many guests come here.

The best beach in the island is where the main camp is. It is currently being developed, replacing the old huts with mud houses and adding more places where one could enjoy the beautiful atmosphere of the island.

The mud houses are made of a mixture of clay, straw, and lime with a framework of bamboo and were designed by Kaila, a marine biologist and the daughter of Gerry Ledesma, president of the foundation. She also designed the Sunset Bar that is expected to be a hit among visitors who wish to enjoy the beautiful Sulu Sea sunset.

Of the five lagoons in the island, we were able to explore two, the third where we stayed, and the second lagoon totally surrounded by mangroves. We were also able to catch a glimpse of the first lagoon near the main camp when we took the sea route toward the camp.

Aside from enjoying one’s solitude, there are plenty of activities to be had in the island, at no extra cost. Forest trekking, for one, is a rewarding experience. While you’re at it, you can try to catch a glimpse of one of the 72 species of birds in the island.

There are also two kayaks that can be borrowed, should you want to explore the third lagoon’s amazing mangrove forests.

Shore-based snorkeling in nearby reefs can be had by renting the snorkeling equipment at P75 per day. Or if you are feeling a bit adventurous, you can explore the beautiful reefs around the island at a reasonable price. SCUBA equipment can also be rented, if you don’t have one.

If being trapped in an island is a nightmare, then being trapped in Danjugan Island is an exception. The island is not only a showcase of the beauty of unspoiled nature, but it is also a haven for those wanting to experience the bliss of isolation in order to commune with nature, even for just a day or two. ?