Suits 101

CEBU, Philippines - There is a reason why I hardly write about men’s fashion and it’s simply because the changes and the trends revolving around this subcategory of fashion are, as they say, few and far between. Rarely have we seen any drastic changes in men’s fashion in the past years—only slight twists in the basics. Men are usually the no-frills set among the sexes and because of this, even the slightest tweaks in anything that has everything to do with fashion can be considered a drastic change.

A classic element in the men’s wardrobe collection is the trusty suit. Unlike gowns and cocktail dresses, rarely have I come across men who fuss about the style of the suit. However, although a classic, it does not mean that the suit cannot be and will never undergo even the smallest of changes.

As summer draws to a close, and job hunting is at its peak once more for fresh grads, it is important for the average Joe to keep a keen eye on which suit to pick for that make or break job interview for that killer corporate post—or to simply expand one’s knowledge about suits (I promise this article will come in handy especially when your GF won’t be around to give you any fashion advice).

Let’s keep this as simple and structured as the average suit. When it comes to this staple in men’s formal wear, it pays to look at three key things: The Cut, The Fabric and the Details.

Cut

When it comes to the cut of the suit, suffice to say that the goal of the suit is generally to accentuate the well-worked male figure or the V-shape. Looking back, there have been really two kinds of cuts that have constantly made a strong presence at the red carpet, at proms, or wherever the suit is needed: the skinny boy cut or the boxed cut. For this year, we say that neither of the two are in or out. Rather, riding on to the military trend that is prevalent in women’s trends, we make a find mix of the two prevailing trends and highlight a more powerful, masculine feel to the suit with cuts that hint on the military fashion. Think of power shoulders, a trim waist, and slim trousers.

We zero in on one key cut: the Kent cut which was widely popularized by Prince George the Duke of Kent. This is characterized with the bottom tip of the lapel extending and resting on one of the buttons at the waist—with emphasis on the waist. The updated Kent cut will have more definition at the waist to highlight the ideal male bod, thus, no longer fulfilling its former purpose of hiding a plump figure. The new Kent cut will do anything but. In fact, even the extended lapel is geared towards this—extend height and give the illusion of a trim waist.

Fabric

Fabric is another important consideration in choosing the perfect suit. With the theme for this year being neo-classic, it is high time to give the classic block colors of black, grey and navy a rest and give way to more fashion forward finds and patterns in men’s fashion. 

Fabric-wise, key cloths to watch out for are both cotton and linen, given the kind of weather we have in the Philippines. Wool is definitely out of the question. Between the two, linen is the best for hot, humid days because it is the most breathable to the skin. Linen creases easily but fear not. This is where it lends its extra charm. Linen is best worn in lighter colors like cream rather than in darker and heavier shades that seal in more heat than one can handle. Cotton is another sunny day-friendly fabric although it creases just like linen. Cotton is best for informal suits and sports jackets rather than those that you would wear to an evening gala.

When it comes to patterns, the classics are still hot: harris tweed, rope-stripe, herringbone, pinstripe and hound’s-tooth. 

Details

Albeit it may sound a little trivial, but the case of how many buttons a suit must have is one of the more serious matters to contemplate on. The suit may be a simple article of clothing but it has more visual tricks under its sleeves than you might realize. According to Daniel Dykes, the editor-in-chief of Fashionising.com, buttons will give the illusion of height and the more buttons a suit has, the taller the dashing dude will look. 

Single-button suits are generally meant for fashion suits and must be strictly avoided by those who are a little bit lacking in the height department. Double buttons convey modern, slim fits that are both fashion-forward and classic. Triple-buttons make you look taller compared to the double-button variety; however, this is harder to really pull off. Avoid four or more buttons unless you’re in it for some costume party or freak show.

The lapel is another essential aspect in men’s suits as it contours and emphasizes the much-coveted V-figure. The peaked lapel hits a homerun in this aspect.

To complete the look, we take a closer examination of the shoulders. Power shoulders are as much of a men’s trend as it is a women’s trend, considering that power shoulders convey just as their name implies—power. Many suits have shoulders that cut exactly where one’s shoulder bone cuts off into the arms. However, there are times when this might run the risk of looking a little bit dorky. Dare to go for suits with the shoulder pads running a little off the edge of your natural shoulders for an illusion of broader shoulders and stronger arms.

Like any other kind of clothing, suits have to reflect a sense of style and taste. Suits come in a variety of forms and cuts, no matter how similar they all are from each other, misjudging even just one detail could ruin it entirely for you. When it comes to suits, every detail counts—even the last button.