Spiritual splendor

CEBU, Philippines - There’s nothing like a lost city to stir the imagination and whet the appetite of an intrepid adventurer. And lost, Angkor Wat certainly was.

The temples of Angkor are found in Siem Reap. A short plane ride away from Thailand or Singapore (and at the end of this year, Cathay Pacific promises to fly directly from Hong Kong), Siem Reap has only recently been opened up to visitors. Literally meaning Siam Defeated, the city was built to celebrate the Khmer’s victory over Thailand in a border war. But Siem Reap now stands for more than just that – it is a living testament to the artistry of man, and one of ancient civilization’s greatest achievements.

We took Silk Air, one of the region’s nicest airlines, to our destination. It is a breeze going through the city’s modern mid-sized airport, where grim immigration officers (probably communist policemen before their new civil service jobs took them away from a more stimulating life) take your picture without telling you when to smile. Members of the ASEAN bloc don’t need visas if the duration of the trip is less than ten days, and so our entry process was less painful than expected. 

A different world greeted us when we exited the terminal. The hot Khmer sun blazed, and dust from unpaved roads swirled round us. Yet through the haze and perspiration, a heady atmosphere penetrated, and excitement permeated the air.  

Friendly locals looked, but didn’t necessarily stare speculatively. Tuktuk drivers didn’t try to rip us off, and street peddlers took a “no” with grace. While communicating in English was a problem, we never became frustrated, but only received good-natured accommodation. We saw landmine victims a-plenty, and seeing them with any (or all) of their limbs blown off was disturbing. But despite their disabilities, they went about their business, whether watching over the street wares or touting tuktuks, seemingly with pluck, and no detectable despair or apathy. 

While we wanted to channel Angelina Jolie and wear thigh-high boots and distressed denim short shorts, it was made clear to us by Sok, our tour guide, that we had to wear appropriate clothing. All tops have to have sleeves, and knees should be covered. Obediently attired on temple-visiting day (and the fact that Sok was a former military officer had nothing to do with it), we took the half hour journey to the holy capital city of King Suryavarman.

Some tourists wake up at sunrise to catch the rays of the sun hit the temple. Some ride bicycles, so they can enjoy the landscape. Sunset is also an option, so tourists can await the purple and orange scape transform the magnificent buildings. As we were all slothfully civilized, we took a coaster after a leisurely breakfast, and had our photos (again) taken at the gates for our day pass. 

Big mistake – one day is not enough for the temples, as we were to later learn. Three days might suffice for an easily bored dilettante, but personally, I could have wandered around for an entire week. Magnificent, the temples were. Awe-inspiring. Breath-taking. Adjective-exhausting.

From delicately carved bas reliefs to crumbling towers, from leering demons to beatific buddhas, from etched life stories of the cruel emperors and the sacrificial virgins (although Sok may have been exaggerating along the way), every step took us steadily down another life and another time. Never mind the stifling heat or the lack of bathroom amenities, the smell of fellow tourists or the soreness of one’s feet – Siem Reap’s temples swallow the traveler in their sumptuous grandeur, and cocoon them in mystery and history.

We came across the famous trees that took root within Ta Prohm’s walls, made famous by Lara Croft, and walked through the walled city that is Angkor Thom. There were trees that glowed silver in the sun, and others carried the weight of gigantic beehives. So much time has passed, seemingly leaving the stones to tumble naturally, yet at the same time, another history also made its presence felt, with bullet holes of who knew which, whether rebels, military, Pol Pot or liberators, visible through ancient surfaces and scarring delicate sculptures.

Some temples were closed due to conservation efforts, while others had various mounds of ancient stone piled up, each stone marked with a serial number to denote where it should go into the puzzle. The Wall of the Elephants, an ancient viewing deck for games of deadly polo (with human heads used as balls) showed evidence of newly crafted blocks carefully mixed with the old. It is a crime to smuggle out stone artifacts or buddhas from Cambodia, and after immersing oneself within the city’s bones, you become adherents of the policy.

Elephants still walk the trails, and adventure seekers can ask to be ferried across mountain trails. Mostly, though, tourists traipse through the ancient walls, breathing in the incense and hopefully, leaving no evidence of their passing other than their carbon dioxide emissions. (Wandering off the beaten path is discouraged, as landmines reportedly still abound.)

We were bone-weary when we left the last temple late in the afternoon. After having sipped fresh buko juice, we reported for dinner duty, and discovered what a feast can be had at Siem Reap. Huge dishes can be had for only 3 or 4 US$, and the city special, amok, is something that has to be tried. This dish is either curried fish or chicken, simmering in coconut milk and blended with various local spices. 

For more glamorous surroundings, there is Nest, a fusion restaurant that boasts of being Cambodia’s best restaurant of 2009. While open air, there are crazily skewed tarpaulin roofs to protect patrons from the elements, and giant fans whick away potential sweat. Thai, Vietnamese, and of course, Cambodian cuisine mix easily with margaritas and vodka gimlets, and the food, while pricey compared to the rest of the city, is a good way to spend the rest of the night.

Coffee junkies can head over to Le Grand Café, which is at the corner of the old market at the French quarter. Bitter black brew is available, together with pineapple pancakes with nuttela honey and butter for only three bucks. Or, there’s always the Blue Pumpkin, with its selection of chocolate brioches and butter croissants, or refreshing gelato or fresh fruit juices. Alas, there was no Starbucks in sight, but that’s probably an indulgence that was best left at home.

Shoppers can always go to the Old Market or the Night Market, although at this time, the Old Market’s still the best bet. Semi-precious stones, silver-filigreed bags, amber trinkets, silk scarves – all these can be found in profusion at the market, mixed with the usual t-shirt souvenirs. Our finds for the trip, however, included crocodile and snakeskin belts, although stuffed crocs seemed a bit excessive, even for us.

It was with regret that we bid adieu to this former French colony, and even after having paid the steep 25US$ departure fee, and with no Maddox smuggled into our luggage, we were pretty sure we were going to come back. 

Siem Reap is unbeatable. Or, as they say, undefeated. ?