Malitbog

CEBU, Philippines –  I found rich memories of the Escaño clan on a recent visit to a town called Malitbog, located in Southern Leyte. There are so many names and dates to take in, but I will try to recall as best as I can.

We were welcomed at the Casa Josefina, our accommodation during our stay, owned and run by a hospitable couple, Lorenzo “Bingo” Escaño Jr and wife, Josefina “Pina.” Meals included the typical Spanish lengua and callos, plus fresh buko pandan for dessert with fried banana and cake for snacks.

To commence the opening of the fiesta, a marching band began playing loudly at 5:30 am, but I very much enjoyed this wake up call. Starting the day, we were introduced to some relatives at the billiard area, one uncle named Johnny Aberasturi who took the time to gladly show us around the town of Malitbog and to answer my hundreds of questions.

We were first taken to the house of Maria (Lola Biyay) and Jacinto Aberasturi built in 1918, where I also met other relatives, Joel Aberasturi and family. In this family home, it was such a fulfilment to visit the same room where my father was born 65 years ago. It made me realize that life is just a cycle – you are born, you live, then you pass away. I looked out of the window facing the sea from the veranda and had that incredible feeling of standing at that very same place where my relatives stood before.

Down the street lined with ancient acacia trees, I spotted the Malitbog Roman Catholic Church, the same church where my great, great, great grandparents got married in 1872. At the corner lay the remains of their ancestral home, the Casa Escaño, which sadly burned in 1957.

On the side of the Casa, a factory housed the abaca press for loose hemp to be classified and baled for export in the early days. During this period, there used to be a port (Malitbog Wharf), but it closed when the hemp business was shut down completely. It makes me wonder what this place would have been like if the business was still running today.

Across the ruins of the Casa Escaño are the municipal hall and the 1862 police station, both of which are still in operation.

I have observed that there are so many large and expansive houses in the town of Malitbog, many that greatly possess a true Spanish charm. With a population of just fewer than 20,000 spread over 37 different barangays, there is still plenty of room to expand.

I went to pay my respects at the Escaño Mausoleum where I coincidentally met siblings, Grace and Lito Escaño (children of Jose “Otic” Escaño) and felt that instant connection despite having met them for the very first time!

To let time pass, the people of Malitbog enjoy each other’s company by sharing stories with their neighbours, play billiards, go to the mercado to make a few purchases, swim in the sea, sing karaoke to their heart’s content, eat, drink and endlessly accommodate their visitors. I like the fact that everyone makes you feel so welcomed!

My main reason to visit Malitbog was to take a trip back in time and retrace my family roots. It was such a pleasure to finally meet Lolo Jose “Chichoy,” the brother of my grandmother, Mommy Moning. What a lovely surprise to find that the two siblings have so many similarities!

I would also like to extend my gratitude to my aunt, Charito Aberasturi, for giving us the chance to visit Malitbog and for her company throughout our entire stay.

Just like a line from the Escaño song, “We all know that time brings changes, life goes through so many stages, but time can’t take away yesterday…” Until then, I look forward to my next visit.

How to travel to Malitbog from Cebu:

The fastest way is to take the Supercat from Pier 4. It is a two and a half hour boat ride taking you directly to Ormoc City. From there, you will need to travel for another two hours and 15 minutes by car to Malitbog. The total travel time should be roughly around five and a half hours including lunch and toilet breaks.