Menswear Evolution

CEBU, Philippines – Black for summer? Why not? The color normally relegated to fall and winter is now bracing to take on the sunny weather. Though it takes a lot of chutzpah for any designer to show black during the hot season, William Manahan and Philip Tampus brazenly showed black, in moderation. “Yes moderation is the key word!” opined the former whose reclusive lifestyle had the industry abuzz.

Their summer menswear collection, shown in this page with novice 6-foot stunner Blui Arriola, trumpeted a new sportswear cum formal wear for men, while simultaneously conjuring up celluloid visions of James Dean and Clark Gable. In practice, the gist of these clothes is to recast nostalgic classics with a sporty road-trip bent—the perfect jacket and trousers with black accoutrement; the little patchwork motorcycle jacket, now in sheen fabric with sleeves full of brass rivets; the dinner jacket dressed up with chunks of detailing like a twisted collar.

Though Edwin Ao, always in the forefront of fashion, offered choices. Like his summer line, his menswear was very much an oatmeal and ivory collection, and it kept a laserlike focus on the tailoring. Perhaps the above-mentioned designers are thinking evolution, not revolution? A respectable strategy for the trio whose palate of styles for the unconstrained man, signaled a gentle push further out into the fashion sea.