The Other Side of Paradise

CEBU, Philippines – According to historians and tales of old, the tiny island of Pandanon was abundant with plants known as pandan. Locals often use the leaves of this plant as flavoring, herbal medicine and to make handicrafts. Its flowers are even made into perfume. The pandan plant commonly grows in the Asia Pacific Region, Australia and Madagascar, and as to how it reached this distant island, remains a mystery until this very moment. It was from this plant that the island got its name.

Some people have this misconception that Pandanon is still part of Cebu when in fact it really isn’t. This little island, in middle of the vast blue Camotes Sea, is part of northern Bohol and is politically appended to the town of Getafe.

Pandanon, with its diminutive size, shouldn’t be considered as an island but an islet. It is so tiny that you can stroll around it in less than 30 minutes. But people have always known it as Pandanon Island.

Recently the island was given national recognition when several TV media companies featured it in some of their travel and tourism shows. This can be a boon or bane for the island.

Together with my buddies and several of my earned friends from Multiply who share my passion for photography, we trooped to a small port in Maribago to catch our boat ride to Pandanon Island.

The whole idea was just to relax with friends, old and new. But then I had my camera with me and everyone knew what that meant. The calling for journalism is just way too much to be ignored. From the very start of the journey I already had it etched in my backbone that I had to document as much as possible the whole island and not just have fun.

Thus, after we had our stuff settled in a rented cottage, I began my lone journey away from my vacation-starved friends.

Pandanon is a very narrow and elongated island with both ends having stretches of white sandbars. There have been great developments in the island since my first visit. There was already a concrete port/building standing at the southern face of the east point of the island. And a beautiful white concrete chapel that awaits future couples craving for that perfect beach wedding. There were now several huts and cottages standing. I just wish that the rise of these structures would be minimal, because I hate to see the natural beauty of the place gradually wither.

As I trudged the long white sandbar away from the paradise point of the island, something came to me. I realized that the island has two faces, and I was about to enter a new side of this famed islet. Damaged houses on concrete stilts replaced the comforting sight of the wooden and nipa cottages. Pieces of garbage were slowly gathering at my feet. Still, I moved on.

Soon my feet felt solid ground. I was now walking amidst little shanties and makeshift houses. The very first sign of human life my eyes laid upon was a sea of smiling faces of children who, like rabbits from their holes, popped out from almost every direction asking for their photos to be taken. The whole island is literally crawling with them.

As I continued strolling onwards, it was like the whole island lifestyle was served to me on a silver platter. My eyes were feasting and my fingers couldn’t stop clicking. I was so fascinated with the people living there.

I was so amazed on how the islanders adapted to a minimal electricity environment and was even more surprised to know that there was no fresh water source in the island. The locals rely mostly on rain water for their drinking and washing needs. This is why in almost every corner you can see clay basins and jars or what locals commonly call banga in almost every size to store their precious water. I also passed by their barangay hall and I really found it weird to see people who were busy working, weaving fishnets. Weird since I was so accustomed to the sight of fat and lazy tanods dozing in front of barangay halls here in the city.

As I asked around, I learned that their livelihood greatly depends on fishing and seaweed farming. Others result to individual entrepreneurship like selling food, fuel and of course, water. The island consists of more or less 400 families and a rough population of 2,000 to 3,000 individuals.

As I almost reached the other end of the island, I noticed something. There were less and less people around. Then, I found myself standing in front of the island’s only school for the children. And it was deserted except for the four boys who were kind enough to direct me to the most unexpected surprise within the island.

At the end of the other side of this island paradise lies a cemetery, where the islanders bury their loved ones. Tombs and wooden crosses sprout everywhere in a very disorganized fashion as tall grasses conceal the rest, making it hard for me to take a step without disrespecting the dead. The area was very silent, that even with the scorching heat of the noon sun it wasn’t enough to prevent me from having chills. It was then that I realized something, the message that I learned from the trip. In order for life to move on, there must be a balance in everything. Just like the way there is balance in Pandanon.