Mzuri Kenya: Samburuland

At the invitation of the Kenya Tourism Board (KTB) and Kenya Airways (KQ), eight travel agents, along with three from media, were led by two escorts from KQ Philippines.  The KQ Bangkok representative likewise escorted nine Thai travel agents on this safari marathon. Aida Uy of Cebu Fortune Travel and myself, representing The FREEMAN, were the only ones from Cebu. After a long journey through Hongkong and Bangkok, on Kenya Airways, we arrived at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi and immediately transferred to the Wilson Domestic Airport for our Kenya Air flight to Samburu District in the north. Thus, the start of our adventure in this East African country known as the world’s Safariland: Kenya!

The Dark Continent of Africa, due to its natural wealth and immensity, was a coveted gem among the western powers. Hence, East and Central Africa became British Protectorates, West Africa a French colony, South Africa a Dutch colony; while French, Italian and German colonizers shared North Africa.

Kenya, East Africa, got its independence from Great Britain in 1963, through the valiant leadership of its visionary national hero Jomo Kenyatta who became the first president. Kenyatta was able to unite the various tribes and placed Kenya on track towards modernization and technology. However, post-election violence among the tribes took place late last year – the worst in history – that badly affected tourism and the country’s economy. 

Kenya Airways CEO Titus Naikuni faced the problem squarely when he wrote in the in-flight magazine’s editorial: “The beginning of this year saw our country appear in international arena for all the wrong reasons…they had talked about how we were on the brink of extinction…how we have always co-existed peacefully for 40 years…how neighbors were turning savagely on each other. Never has there been a darker page in Kenya’s post-independence history.”

KTB now wants to show the international tourism industry, by inviting key players, that it is sasa hakuna matata (it’s now no worries!). Safariland is ready for tourists again. Kenyans are eager to show visitors what are mzuri sana (very beautiful) they have to offer: sceneries, culture, flora and fauna.

Samburuland

This is the land of gold (the color of the earth and the sun), frankincense (the resin of a tree Boswellia carteri in the bush land) and myrrh (obtained from two shrubs Commiphora abyssinica and Commiphora africana abundant in the bush land). Along with ivory, these were valued goods from eastern Africa traded long before the birth of Christ.

The Samburu tribe—considered the most beautiful, with their aristocratic features — are nomadic pastoral. So-named by the Maasai tribe because they traditionally carry samburrs or leather hunting bags, slung across their athletic shoulders.  According to our guide Allan Njoroge, Samburus now number about 200,000. They migrated from Sudan and Ethiopia, even from farther north.

Soon after we entered Samburu National Reserve, we went into a game drive and sighted many animals: elephant families crossing the mighty Uaso Nyiro or Brown River – the only source of water in these parts.  Its source is Mount Kenya in the southwest, from the 72-meter drop Thomson’s Falls locally called Nyahururu, Maa language of the Maasai tribe, meaning “where the waters run deep.” The river does not reach the sea, but ends in the Lorian Swamp in the east.

Alan pointed out romping bachelor impalas (antelopes), “kicked out” of their families after reaching mating age to roam together in groups until they start their own families: 1 male to 40 females.  Then we admired the dikdik, one of the smallest antelopes, which mates for life. One dies after the death of the mate.  Then we caught our breaths as we watched a leopard about to pounce on a helpless dikdik.  Soon after, we saw three cheetahs lounging in the bush – brothers most probably, so Allan told us.  We likewise spotted some helmet head vulturines or what we know as guinea fowls, a bolting élan – the shyest and largest of the antelopes, a group of reticulated giraffes and some delightful Grevy’s zebras.

Our adventure had really begun! Will tell you more in the next article of this series.

Thanks to Jhemar Jimenez of Colours-Ayala for his assistance in the final arrangement of the photos taken during the trip.