Lanna Paradise

Lanna - 'Land of a Million Rice-fields'

Something magical happens when travelling from Central or Southern Thailand to the north of the country. The fertile plains give way to misty mountains, the air gets fresher, the language of the inhabitants takes on a sing-song lilt, the pace of life becomes more laid-back and the curious customs of the locals generate a fascination with the culture. The combined effect of these changes is to captivate visitors to the region.

Though there is archaeological evidence that the region that is present-day Northern Thailand has been inhabited for thousands of years, its cultural identity dates from the establishment of the Kingdom of Lanna, with Chiang Mai as its capital, in the late 13th century.

'Lanna' means 'a million rice fields', reflecting the agricultural bounty of the area. In its golden age in the 15th and 16th centuries, the kingdom encompassed not only all the present-day provinces of Northern Thailand, but also vast swathes of modern-day Myanmar (Burma), China and Laos. The inhabitants of Lanna come from a variety of ethnic origins, including Lawa, Mon, Tai Yuan and Tai Lu, but they have intermixed through the generations and are now known simply as khon muang, or 'people of the principalities'. Noted for their gracious, kind and gentle ways, the sincerity, resourcefulness and compromising nature of the Lanna people are qualities that are integral to the legendary charm of the enchanting north.

The descendants of these early settlers still retain their own customs, language, dress and food that are quite distinct from the rest of the country. This is easily explained by the fact that until the arrival of the railway in the early 20th century, the rugged topography of the region made Lanna a land apart. The hills that separate it from the rest of Thailand are in fact the final foothills of the Himalayas, with peaks ranging from 500 - 2,500 metres in height. The Ping, Wang, Yom and Nan Rivers split these peaks into north-south ridges as they flow south to meet Thailand's main river, the Chao Phraya. The valleys created by these rivers provide fertile ground for the cultivation of rice, vegetables and fruit, ensuring that inhabitants never go hungry.

A fortuitous combination of northern latitude and raised elevation also brings a distinct cool season from November to February. During this time, local markets are piled high with flowers and fruits more typical of temperate zones, such as roses and carnations, apples and strawberries. Though these plants are not indigenous to the north, they have been introduced with great success, thanks largely to Royal Projects that have been initiated by His Majesty the King. These projects not only expand an already abundant range of agricultural and horticultural produce, but they also provide gainful employment to the hill tribe groups (the Akha, Lisu, Karen, Lahu, Hmong and Yao), some of whose green-fingered skills were once applied to opium cultivation.

Rituals and Festivals

The rural nature of life for the early inhabitants of Lanna encouraged both a co-operative attitude, especially at planting and harvesting time, and the practice of animism - making offerings to the spirits of nature and holding ceremonies in their honour. Many of these ceremonies, which are invariably colourful and joyful events, continue today and provide a clue as to why visitors find the culture of Lanna so exotic and enticing. Examples of such ceremonies include establishing a spirit house, which is erected to propitiate the spirit of the land on which a house is built, as well as honouring the guardian spirit of a city for its ongoing protection and well-being, such as the annual Inthakhin Festival in Chiang Mai (May or June), and spirit mediums dancing in a trance to thank their titulary spirits for their healing powers.

Lanna - Home of the Artisans

Since the arrival of Theravada Buddhism in the 14th century, Lanna's inhabitants have focused their artistic skills on the building and decoration of temples, though their animist beliefs have been integrated rather than cast out. With their multi-tiered roofs, low-slung eaves and cool interiors, Lanna-style temples beckon visitors in to admire their carvings, sculptures and paintings in an atmosphere of quiet contemplation. The gables, doors and windows are usually carved with a wild tangle of vines and flowers, interspersed with winged mythical creatures like the kinnaree, the garuda and the hasadiling. Inside, the pillars are reminiscent of towering trees in the forest and are frequently decorated with floral motifs, while the walls are often covered with murals depicting both Buddhist themes and scenes from everyday life. The overall effect is to give Lanna temples a natural feel and make them relaxing places to be. When we look at and appreciate beautifully executed murals, carvings or Buddha images in such a tranquil setting, it is easy to be mindful, meaning to keep our attention in the present moment, which is the goal of Buddhist meditation.

Exquisite Lanna Crafts

This state of relaxed attentiveness, which seems to pervade the Lanna way of life, is very much in evidence in the handicrafts for which the region has become justly famous. Objects once made for household use, such as baskets, lacquer bowls, water jars and pha sin (a wrap-around skirt) are now in huge demand among visitors to the North. A visit to the workshops along the Handicraft Highway between Chiang Mai and San Kamphaeng reveals the levels of concentration and patience that weavers, carvers, silversmiths and potters apply to their work, and the result is frequently a creation of originality and beauty. Nature is the principal source of inspiration for these artisans, with auspicious animals, flowers and spiralling vines decorating lacquerware and silverware items, while flowing water may be depicted in the intricate weaving of a pha sin. During the last century, the diversity of crafts made in Lanna has expanded considerably with the arrival of the colourful hill tribes, whose bright jackets and bags compete for shoppers' attention in Chiang Mai's Night Bazaar with the more subdued colours of textiles made by the khon muang.

Lanna Cuisine - Enchanting Simplicity

When it comes to Lanna cuisine, we are reminded that the region came to prominence as a trading route between China and India. A couple of the north's most popular dishes are khao soi, a delectable curry broth over noodles, with a side dish of pickles, that originates from Yunnan in China and kaeng hang lay, a thick pork and ginger curry which comes from Myanmar. In contrast to their southern cousins, northerners have a preference for sticky rice rather than steamed rice, and eat it with the fingers of their right hand, moulding it into a small ball before dipping it into a tongue-tingling sauce. The locals' reverence for and knowledge of nature comes to the fore in the dips and sauces of Lanna cuisine, as they blend plants, herbs and spices found in local forests to produce dishes that are nutritious, healing and balancing for the body.

Refined Simplicity

Professor Vithi Phanichphant from the Faculty of Fine Arts at Chiang Mai University, a renowned expert on Lanna culture, attempts to pin down the essence of Lanna culture - the one thread that unifies the appealing landscapes, the lively ceremonies, welcoming temples, the flair for design in local crafts and impressive culinary skills.

"It's refined simplicity," he says. "Take this khao laam, for example. It's just sticky rice, but when it's mixed with coconut milk and beans, then baked in a bamboo tube, it becomes something special".

All creations in Lanna culture begin with a simple basic design that the artisans refine with their own special touches to make them unique. In the case of the pha sin, for example, the refining touch usually takes the form of an elaborately embroidered hem border. In a temple it may take the form of a serene expression on the face of a Buddha image, or a mural depicting a local festival.

Given the idyllic nature of its landscapes and refined simplicity of its people, it comes as no surprise that visitors are enchanted when they enter North Thailand - a true Lanna paradise.