Surprising Guiuan

Great surprises come when you least expect them.

This holds true for Guiuan, one of the emerging travel destinations in Eastern Samar.

"Guiuan" (pronounced gi-wan) is derived from the word "guibang," which means broken, rugged or chipped off. Another source says that the word was taken from the term "guiguan," from the word "gigwanum," which means salty water.

I first heard about Guiuan when I participated in a surfing clinic sponsored by Smart Communications in Siargao last year. The guy who was conducting the surfing lesson mentioned in passing about competing in a surfing cup in Guiuan.Although I had wanted to know where the place is, I wasn't able to put through the question because we were too eager to finish the lesson so we could put it into action (read: ride the surf board because the demo was conducted by the beach). Now, don't get me wrong, am no surf enthusiast. That's why when I was invited to go to Guiuan, my first reaction was " I don't wanna surf." My friend who had been there said, "the place offers more than surfing ... you'll be surprised of what you'll discover there."

A place in history

Guiuan sits on a narrow strip of land at the very tip of Samar Island, the country's third largest island, ringed with islands, islets, and coves facing Leyte Gulf. It is bounded on the north and west by Mercedes, on the east by the Pacific Ocean and on the south by Surigao Strait.

The first surprise that I bumped into is Guiuan's part in Philippine history. The town was witness to two significant events in our history that I wouldn't have known had I not come. Sure I know that on March 16, 1521, intrepid Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan, flying the Spanish flag, set foot on Philippine soil in Homonhon. But my history teachers failed to mention that the tiny island that first caught Magellan's attention is part of Guiuan.

On October 17, 1944, American Army Rangers landed in Suluan Island and overran a Japanese garrison there. This event reportedly signaled the start of the liberation of the Philippines.

Another story that I am sure most of us don't know is that although Gen. Douglas "I shall return" McArthur landed in Leyte, it was actually in Guiuan that he launched his campaign in 1944 to "liberate" the Philippines from the Japanese.

With its important role in Philippine history, it is no wonder that visitors will find a lot of historical sites in this peaceful and scenic town about two hours away from Tacloban City.

On top of the list is, of course, the Magellan Landing Site, the exact spot in Homonhon where Magellan and his men first landed. It is here where the group drank fresh water and took a week-long respite after months at sea.

Guiuan is home to the Immaculate Conception Church, considered as the most beautiful antique church in Eastern Visayas. It was built in 1595 by Augustinian friars who arrived during the second expedition to the Philippines from Spain. Done solely by manual labor, it took the Guiuananons over 20 years to complete this imposing edifice of adobe stone. Because of its remarkable features, like the unique carved icons at the Spanish-Baroque altar and intricate chiseled doors bearing the images of Sts. Peter and Paul (Imelda Marcos once offered millions of pesos for the doors), the church is chosen as one of only 21 churches in the Philippines for restoration by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA).

Another historical remnant worthy of a visit is the Navy 3149 Base in Brgy. Ngolos, once the largest P.T. boat base in the world. Constructed shortly before the outbreak of the 2nd World War, it had been the base of the American soldiers and allied forces, as well as the famed Enola Gay - the B-52 Bomber that dropped the first atomic bomb on August 7, 1945 in Hiroshima, Japan. At the base, one can still find a World War 2 P.T. boat dock still intact. Another extant American legacy is the 7,000 feet runway that can easily accommodate a Boeing 737.

Guiuan's biggest surprise

From the town proper, we moved to our main destination - Calicoan Island - which to me is Guiuan's biggest surprise!

"That should be the gate. On your left with the bougainvilleas," was my friend Jane's instruction to our driver.

It was night when we finally arrived in The Surf Camp, our home for this Guiuan sojourn. The surf camp was not what I expected. When the gate was opened, all we could say was "wow!" Who would have thought that a place as remote and undeveloped as Calicoan would have in its bossom a world-class resort? Yes, The Surf Camp is a resort. And a beautiful one at that. Imagine luxuriously-furnished villas with architecture and furnishings inspired by Thai, Balinese, Indonesian and Filipino cultures. Here, your privacy is guaranteed as the resort has only 8 cottages and villas built with the guest's convenience in mind. Our villa came with superb airconditioning, two twin-size beds, minibar, hot and cold shower, satelite TV and intercom. The resort has also an infinity pool which offers unrestricted view of the Pacific Ocean, and a chef who always comes up with delicous meals. The food was soooooooo tempting that in less than two days I already felt like a bloated whale.

The Surf Camp is just one of the many attractions in Calicoan. It is actually in the island where the Third Leg of the Annual Philippine Surfing Circuit is held every October. Calicoan enjoys powerful swells, especially during the surf months of October to March because of its proximity to the Pacific Ocean. While making a name from surfing, the island offers so much more like miles and miles of white sand beaches, caves, wetlands and mangrove forests teeming with fish, shrimps and crabs, and saltwater lagoons.

Still another must-see in Calicoan is Sulangan, considered the "mecca" of Eastern Samar. The picturesque barrio is famous for its golden cowrie & tropical fishes and most of all, its miraculous shrine, the Shrine of Saints Anthony de Padua and Antonio Abad.Common miracles attributed to Saint Anthony de Padua are illnesses which have been pronounced as hopeless cases already but were healed. Help in passing board exams, having a baby after long years of infertility and finding of lost articles are the other favors granted by the miraculous saint. But folks say that wishes are only granted if one gives equal offering to both saints. If you decide to go, I suggest you do so on a weekday. Never on a Sunday when as early as 5 in the morning, devotees are already pouring in.

How time flies when one is happy and enjoying the moment. Our Calicoan days were up before we could even decide what to do next. Should we try the kayak? Go sailing or jungle trekking? Too many possibilities yet so little time.But then there is always a next time. If Saints Anthony de Padua and Anthony Abad grant my wish, I'd be very happy to go back to Calicoan.