Doing Paris Alone (Part 2)

…and rediscovering my strengths.  I was not answerable to anyone and Paris was an oyster ready for my indulgence, so I kept at my own pace with daily goals set to be met. I laughed at my initial terror in being alone in France with no French vocabulary under my belt.   I found out that the French has acquitted himself/herself very well in the face of globalization.  English is no longer a snubbed language and Spanish is widely spoken, as well. There were as many Spanish-speaking tourists in my tours and among my hotel’s occupants.

Walking the side streets of Paris, one must watch out for dog turds on the sidewalks. One usually comes across pet owners walking their dogs, but they don’t clean up after. One must also look out for gypsies who are the most notorious pickpockets all over Europe.  They work by groups to overwhelm the tourist victim…some dress up like corporate executives.  Mostly, they beg on street corners or at church entrances – women with headscarves and children.  During cold weather, though, these pickpockets are not as active since it is difficult to do their stuff when people are wearing heavy overcoats. It was still winter weather when I was in Paris, so they were not many. I regularly passed by a gypsy woman beggar at the corner down my street; I saw a group of them huddling at the closed front doors of Trinite Church (where I take the Metro or pass on the way to the shops & sights); and I watched two women fighting vociferously in front of Sacre Coeur Basilica. There was also a gypsy male beggar at the entrance of Galeries Lafayette on Blvd. Hausmann.

My only Sunday in Paris was Palm Sunday and off I went to Bruges in Belgium. Just like my Saturday tour to Champagne, I was picked up and brought back to my hotel. After four hours by minibus, we reached Bruges, which used to be the center of maritime trade, an international port in the 12th century, established by the Counts of Flanders. It was overtaken by Antwerp in the 15th century but it regained its economic standing when the Dukes of Burgundy took over patronage.  Its lace making was renowned since the Middle Ages and Belgium’s wrought iron works, tapestry weaving and embroidery are rooted in Bruges. Because of its many canals and charming bridges, Bruges is known as “the small Venice in the North.”

Bruges has retained its Medieval ambiance through its cobble stoned streets, its ancient belfry and Market Hall, its quaint buildings and churches. The highlight of my visit was being able to kiss the relic of the Holy Blood, which was on exhibit only for that Sunday, the start of Holy Week. I was able to touch the crystal sheath containing the relic, as I prayed, then kissed it!  The relic was on the second floor chapel with a grand stairway dating back to 1529.  According to legend, the relic of Jesus’ blood was given to Thierry of Alsace, Count of Flanders, by Fucher, the Patriarch of Jerusalem on Christmas Day 1148.  Thierry donated the relic to Bruges upon his return.

The full day visit to Bruges was well worth every moment! It was like walking the streets of the fairy tales of one’s childhood.  The tranquil streams and canals inspire a resonant tranquility in the viewer’s spirit.  The carillon of the Market Hall belfry sounds off each quarter of the hour, pealing reminders of life’s transitory poignancy.